According to Legend...

Beauty Breakdown; "Nickelodeon World Wide Day of Play"

2011-09-27T15:07:00.000-07:00

Teenagers... gotta love em'.

Okay, so maybe the last week I spent in Washington DC with the casts of mutiple Nickelodeon shows was a bit overkill, I have to admit, being in the presence of such vibrant talent was pretty amazing. The impromptu musical interludes, the boisterous laughter, the practical jokes... didn't care much for those, but you get the idea.

Fortunately most of that time was spent one-on-one with Liz Gillies who plays "Jade West" on the hit show "Victorious". Liz's character is pretty dark and gloomy but in person, she's kind, witty and prefers her makeup simple and easy with just a hint of drama. Being 18 years old, I preferred to keep her makeup to a minimum and highlight her glowing skin and flirty lashes.

Skin was first prepped with Australian Scent Balm of Gilead for lasting hydration, I then used Guerlain Light Diffusing Perfecting Primer to create a secure base that would hold makeup while she engaged in any outdoor activities. Bobbi Brown Skin Foundation then went over areas that needed a bit of attention and highlighted with MAC Cosmetics Creme Colour Base in Pearl and brushed with FACE Stockholm Creme Blush in Athens for a hint of warmth.

For eyes, I dusted FACE Stockholm Matte Eyeshadow in Chiffon all over then used MAC Cosmetics Eyeshadow in Kid on the outer corners for shape. With a small angular brush, I then lined lids with FACE Stockholm Matte Eyeshadow in Russian Caviar. Just to fill in sparse areas, a few Duralash Individual Lashes were placed here and there for a bit of drama.

Lips, we preferred to keep nude yet defined by first lining and filling in with FACE Stockholm Var Lip Pencil for a bit of coral undertone and finished with FACE Stockholm Matte Lipstick in Natural for a pout that would last through frequent water breaks.

The makeup was kept basic enough to play second fiddle to Liz's glowing personality and strong enough to last through any remaining practical jokes.

Product Review; "Birchbox"

2011-09-27T14:18:00.000-07:00

The brainchild of Hayley Barna and Katia Beauchamp, Birchbox is a direct mail service that brings samples of new and intriguing beauty items to your door every month.

For $10 a month, a small brown box will appear on your doorstep loaded full of new releases from beauty companies as well as familiar pieces that may exist in your cosmetics wardrobe. With contributing companies like Benefit, Jouer and NARS every package will contain a surprise smathering of products that can be purchased from the Birchbox website. Each purchase of a full size item will automatically incur points that can be later redeemed for discounts on future purchases.

Plus, each box delivered will be custom tailored to specifications on your very own profile to ensure that those you recieve are relevant to your needs. So if you're a color junkie, expect the latest shadow, mascara and foundation samples. But if you prefer skin care, expect hand creams, facial spritzes or exfoliators.

Applying online is an easy process and should you be interested you can also recieve updates and alerts on future company partnerships. And, always open to critique, contacting the company directly will impact the quality of treats you recieve every month.

Birchbox Membership; $10.00

Product Review; "Shiseido Shimmering Rouge"

2011-09-27T12:43:00.000-07:00

Popular with cosmetic enthusiasts, Shiseido products are created with incredible care to comfort. Maintaining that ethos, Shimmering Rouge is a blend of luxurious ingredients that feel decadent on lips.

These tubes of sheer color are available in a range from vibrant pinks, shimmering neutrals and bold reds that look extravagant at first glance but swipe on skin with a subtlety that's wearable for day or night. The formula is composed of mostly Macademia Nut Oil to retain moisture, Candelilla Wax for a soft firmness that binds to lips and Distilled Water for a light-weight feel. Though dense enough to drench lips in rich moisture, there's no obvious texture that can run, budge or even transfer without distinct intention.

Only available in sheer tones, each color sparkles and shines in one swipe of the tube but can be parred down with blotting or layered on top of pencil for more dramatic effect. Another great option would be to apply in the center of lips over a matte lipstick to create dimension the same way you would a lip gloss.

But, in comparison to gloss, you'll get full shine without the worry of sticking to hair or clothing. Plus, it wears as easily as lip balm, keeping lips full, bright and soft enough to the touch.

Shiseido Shimmering Rouge; $25.00

Product Review; "Bumble and Bumble Grooming Creme"

2011-09-27T11:14:00.000-07:00

"Good lord, your hair is thick."

I nodded in agreement. What else was I gonna do, argue with the obvious? I had asked the hairstylist I was booked with to "blow it out" during our down-time but I didn't expect her to throw an apron over my shoulders and begin sharpening her scissors. A pleasant surprise to say the least.

"You know what you should use? It's from Bumble and Bumble in that light blue bottle..." as she began digging through her kit, she pulled out the squeeze tube full of Grooming Creme that would "...be perfect for just adding a bit of texture to your hair so it's more 'piece-y' and you wouldn't have to use so much gel to keep it under control. But only if you have a better haircut."

And with that, the snipping was imminent. I had been struggling with trying to grow out my hair but the density is so overbearing, it was looking less full and more blustering. Complete with cow-licks going every which way and errand strands standing right up while others lay frizzed in the wrong direction.

Of course, it didn't hurt to have a master wielding my strands into place, but the dense lotion she rubbed over my follicles soon smoothed out portions that were slightly unmanageable and created the look of hair "2 days after washing". Loaded with Avacado Oil, Almond Oil and Jojoba extract, this creamy base has a tendency to feel a bit rich at first but once worked into dampened hair disperses equally and dries with little to no slick feel. The slight hydration factor is nice for those dealing with split ends or frizz and even keeps hair gels, hair sprays and other styling products from drying out hair that can be unruly to begin with.

It's kind of a nice base to start styling from or, in my case, pre-empts any other products once you've got a decent haircut.

Bumble and Bumble Grooming Creme; $26.00

Breaking News; "Dita Von Teese Fragrance"

2011-09-20T16:11:00.000-07:00

Already an international style icon and the epitomy of seduction, Dita Von Teese will soon lend her smoldering sexuality to a fragrance.

"I wanted it to be a perfume that smelled exactly how I imagined it... I wanted it to be perfect, and threw out many previous compositions and refined them."

With exceptional attention to detail, the resulting formula boasts notes of sensuous aromas whose names tease at a scent destined to become synonomous with class, elegance and sexuality itself;

"... a head note of fresh peonies, fizzy bergamot, and slightly spicy Bourbon pepper. The heart of the perfume beguiles the senses with a full and at the same time pure bouquet of Bulgarian rose, Tahitian Tiaré petals, and fresh jasmine. And in the base note, the mystical and warm scents of patchouli, musk, and smoky Gaiac wood and sandalwood captivate all who smell it."

Completely burlesque, full of glamour, and every bit Dita Von Teese – the neck of every bottle is adorned with a silk cord with a nail polish-red pearl, which flows into a long black silk tassel."

Available late October 2011

Product Review; "L'Oreal Pencil Perfect Self Advancing Eyeliner"

2011-09-20T15:11:00.000-07:00

Smudging isn't really that much of a big deal. And I say that because it's almost better to have softened defined lines than obvious sharp edges. And I hate to argue with the L'Oreal marketing team, but their Pencil Perfect Self Advancing Eyeliner does smudge... and that ain't all that bad.

The convenience of a wind-up eyeliner is that it diminishes the need for a pencil sharpener though I have found that some formulas will tend to dry-out much faster when not encased in balsa wood. This particular formula has a base of Mineral Oil and Beeswax that holds the shape in tube but glides on easily to lids and lashlines. Though perfect for smooth application, this concoction makes for tricky, yet achievable, staying power.

Once the pencil goes thinly over skin, it stays slightly moist but maintains a soft-to-the-touch feel. Ideally, you would take an eyeshadow brush to buff product upwards or into lash-lines creating a subtle smokey effect that keeps it from moving any further. Or you could even blend with eyeshadow to intensify the effect. Full of pigment, the soft formula holds onto skin well without budging once it's set with a bit of powder. Even transluscent powder is ideal if you only want a touch of color. Or, for a quick fix, use the tip of your finger to press it in and blend ever so slightly with no additional product. It ends up becoming a bit of a stain that then becomes transfer and water resistant.

Ironically, smudging actually keeps it from moving any further. Someone get marketing on the phone.

L'Oreal Pencil Perfect Self Advancing Eyeliner; $8.49

Product Review; "MAC Mineralized Blush"

2011-09-20T13:20:00.000-07:00

Though generally released to Limited Edition Collections, MAC Cosmetics has lined up some permanent shades of their Mineralized Blush to go with the entire mineralized line of products.

While the foundations and powders in the collection offer very specific kinds of coverage that is maleable, Mineralized Blush seems to have mainly one star characteristic; create a flawless finish.

Regardless of the tone you choose, the baked method of preparation leaves each and every domed powder with an inherent glaze that softens color with a slight pearlized quality. Easily fading away into any foundation product, the inherent luminescence also does away with the need for a highlighter.

Available in shades from light beige to deep plum, use neutral tones to contour cheekbones without creating sharp depth or warm up sun kissed skin by dusting over highpoints and collarbones. Use the richer pinks and plums to round out perky cheeks or do a swift dusting over eyelids before shadow to create all over perky complections reflect subtle nuances of light.

Regardless of the shade you choose, fortunately you no longer have to wait between seasons to get soft, luminous looking skin.

MAC Mineralized Blush; $23.00

Product Review; "Australian Scent Intensive Wrinkle Therapy"

2011-09-20T12:53:00.000-07:00

When I get to work with athletes, it's like being in the presence of mythological gods. Their talent is so remarkable, you almost forget they can have concerns just as human as the rest of us.

Recently on a shoot with global soccer stars, before I had a chance to look her in the eye, one of the talent voiced a concern over her dry skin. After finishing a cycle of acne medication, she was left with flakiness that threatened to disrupt her upcoming wedding plans not to mention the photo shoot we were now prepping for. Immediately I thought about my buddies at Australian Scent who designed their star product "Balm of Gilead" to soothe the founders eczema. Though, as luck would have it, I recently acquired, and added to my kit, their Intensive Wrinkle Therapy.

Armed with all the botanical essential oils that you would come to expect like Shea Butter and Almond Oil this amped up concoction has a heaping dose of omega rich fatty acids that absorbs immediately into troubled skin mellowing out irritation and making trouble spots more supple to touch.

Taking a liberal dollop of the potent formula (half the size of a dime) onto a foundation brush, I smoothed it over her skin in the most troublesome areas then blended out over high-points and around the jawline. Then I asked her to go to hair and come back when done. Quizzically, she complied. Minutes later when she returned, the mirror gave clear explanation of my reasoning.

The standard amount of product needed is about the tip of your finger, but by using a larger dose and letting it sit for a while, the blend absorbed mostly into skin and released flakes from clinging while improving overall tone. With the same brush, I then massaged the skin to induce circulation and absorb any residual into rough patches then lightly applied foundation and concealer like normal.

The small amount of prep created a softer canvas and with extended use, the decadent ingedients like Frankinscense, Green Tea, and Evening Primrose will soften lines, reverse detrimental conditions and protect from further enviornmental foes. Knowing her big day was coming up soon, I offered her the decadent gold jar, curing any further woes about her skin condition.

Consider it an offering to the gods.

Australian Scent Intensive Wrinkle Therapy; $58.00

Friend or Foe?; "Perspectives"

2011-09-06T13:31:00.000-07:00

A colleague asked me once; "What colors should I wear? No one likes it when I wear makeup."

So...? One of my favorite quotes from drag superstar Rupaul has always been;

"What other people think of me, is none of my business."

But when asked by clients what they should wear, my opinion on the matter tends to shift. If only slightly to suit the very different circumstances. For instance, when called on for red carpet functions where pictures are going to be taken to be devoured by the tabloid press and the tabloid purchasing public, my answer to "what should I wear?" is the reason I have a job.

Though, we're talking about a collaboration with a hairstylist, a fashion stylist, a publicist, a manager, and the talent. We look at dresses, we talk location, then logistics. All to create that one perfect moment that can be captured for posterity. But regardless of the tremendous amount of prep that goes into the final look, someone, somewhere will... not... like... it.

It doesn't matter how perfectly lined lips are, how immaculately blended eyes smoke, or how high profile the event may be, there's gonna be some journalist (or blogger) destined to hate it. HATE it. Most of the time, it's nothing more than a personal attack. But sometimes, I don't like to admit it, they can be a little bit on point.

There have been times when I'll be asked to mimic certain looks. Ones torn out of a beauty magazine or even freeze-framed on a television screen. Sometimes, I think, "yea, that could totally work". And sometimes I'm not so affirmative. Personally, I have an aesthetic that I like to stick to, but in the end, I'm here to make clients happy. So on occasion, I've applied bigger than average lashes, slightly too dark bronzers and overly frosted lipgloss.

Though these may not be my favored methods, does it really matter in the end? Sure, I may not be too enthused, but the client digs it. And if she's digging it, she's feeling it which makes her work it. And that kind of confidence is what really sells the overal look.

Even if someone decides to diss it, does it really matter? It could be the start of a new trend. Remember when teased hair held it's place as the epitomy of style and elegance? I bet most of ya'll who rocked that style look back and laugh.

But nothing has really changed aside from the general viewpoint on such styles. They still exist and are easily brushed aside. So, if you're heading the supermarket and you feel like rocking a shocking blue eyeliner winged out to your temples, I say do it. It shouldn't matter if anyone likes it, as long as you do.

Product Review; "Sephora Highlighting Compact Powder"

2011-09-01T14:39:00.000-07:00

I was NOT looking for this product on my last trip to Sephora. And yet, I continued to pass them over... 3 or 4 times.

It wasn't until I asked one of the sales girls, "can I borrow your face" and dusted a bit of Sephora Highlighting Compact Powder over her highpoints with a fluffy brush that I realized that they would come in handy after all. The texture of these powders is very fine and has just the right amount of shimmer that bounces soft light without looking glittery. In fact, they blend so well, I've gone as far as dusting lids before doing eyeshadow to create a soft base that will smooth out sharp edges.

Composed mainly of Talc (it has a noticeable baby powder smell to it) I found that it's a bit drying over time so obviously it's best when topped over a liquid foundation or primer. Though "dry" is definitely not how it finishes. A good amount of Mica gives massive glow without looking oily and is optimal for flaring out for full bright cheekbones.

Though the tones are not terribly forgiving for everyone. Dore is a light gold shimmer shade that's best suited for medium to dark skin tones as a highlighter but can look kind of orange-ish on fair tones if applied too liberally. However, dusting it with a fan brush under bronzer did create softer hints of color. Rose is a soft pink shimmer that's great for very fair to medium-dark tones everywhere you want brilliance but has a tendency to appear ghostly white on anyone darker. But for really sharp highlights, it's perfect when applied with a denser shadow brush to lips and eyebrow highlights.

Looking at the row of newly highlighted Sephora sales girls before me, I realized I'd make pretty good use of both these colors even if I wasn't originally searching for them. Better to purchase them now rather then pass them by 3 or 4 more times.

Sephora Highlighting Compact Powder; $15.00

Product Review; "Sally Hansen Airbrush Legs"

2011-09-01T12:34:00.000-07:00

First impression; Medium Glow is far too orange for me. I began thinking, "another failure of a self tanner". Not a fair assumption, I'll admit it.

Besides, Sally Hansen products have always been among some of my mainstays. So I sat around with it then ran some errands in the neighborhood. No one seemed to notice and soon I became embroiled with my tasks and forgot I had it on myself. It wasn't until I was swatching some lipsticks on the back of my hand that I realized the colors weren't looking like I expected them to. Obviously because there was a thin layer of Sally Hansen Airbrush Legs beneath them.

Ideally for legs, this colorful mist is appropriate on all body parts (save for face) but can apply kind of thick if you use it any less than 8 inches from skin. However, it covers impeccably and provides luminosity with very little transfer and is a favorite among dancers and other stage performers. After applying, you can either let it sit or use hands to rub it in until it dries down to a stain that holds even against wet weather conditions.

On set, I found that it photographed really well giving the camera a chance to capture long highlighted lines without glaring shine. And fortunately for me, there are 3 other colors to choose from for when I get models of varying skin tones. Light Glow would be ideal for adding hints of coverage to medium-fair to medium skin tones, while Tan Glow is great for medium-deep to deep skin tones. But I found that the golden undertones as well as red undertones of very-deep complexions works really well with Deep Glow even if it does add a bit of darkness to the overall look. Especially if, instead of coverage, I just want a bit of a highlight... ya know what, now that I think about it, I don't think Medium Glow would be too orange for them.

Sally Hansen Airbrush Legs; $13.99

Product Review; "Covergirl Outlast Lipstain"

2011-09-01T08:36:00.000-07:00

"Well, that's exactly what I thought a marker would feel like on my lips".

I laughed a bit at my model who sat with her hair up in curlers as she fiddled around with her Blackberry trying to stroke her boyfriend's ego via text-message. Having had her makeup done dozens of times before, I imagine she had been introduced to multiple Covergirl products but low and behold, Outlast Lipstain had eluded her pout until now.

Though the delivery system is a bit unconventional, this product certainly does last. By the time the curlers came out, the boyfriend was soothed and the camera started clicking, the color was still vivid without needing even the slightest bit of touch-up. Applied the same way you would a lipstick or gloss, the texture of the felt tip is a bit bizarre though highly effective at delivering the right amount of color. Available in multiple shades, I found that some show brilliantly, others very bold, and one or two incredibly sheer however, being a stain, don't feather out around liplines.

The stain property dries down into lips while a dose of Hyaluronic Acid retains moisture and Glycerin locks it in. Though not a moisturizing product, I anticipated some drying effect but found none. Most effective over previously moisturized lips and maybe tapped with a bit of gloss, on it's own it won't dry lips out, nor did it make them moist. It simply adds color that holds all day long until removed with a makeup wipe.

Though, the only issue I may have with it is that I tend to transfer lipstick and gloss to a disposable brush to ensure no cross-contamination but it's a bit difficult with this delivery system. So rather than risk reaching for the same tube on another shoot, at the end of the (10 hour) day, I just gave my model the tube. Incredulously, she thanked me then immediately put her Blackberry to her ear;

"The makeup guy just gave me a lip marker!"

Covergirl Outlast Lipstain; $7.99

Product Review; "Neova DNA Damage Control Silc Sheer SPF 45"

2011-09-01T07:37:00.000-07:00

Tinted moisturizer is the kind of product you reach for when you want sheer coverage. Meaning, reducing flaws ever so slightly. But, protection is how you keep those flaws from appearing in the first place.

Neova's main goal seems to be caring for skin's issues, and in some cases reversing existing damage. By protecting top layers with a mind-blowing SPF 45, DNA Damage Control Silc Sheer at first seems like it will be thick and blazingly white, but boasting antioxidant ingredients Green Tea, Rosemary Extract and Lutein you get a moist blend that glides onto skin and absorbs after moments. With a helping of Aloe Vera Extract to retain that moisture, the formula still utilizes a heavy dose of Titanium Dioxide and Octinoxate to block both UVA and UVB rays while a sheer wash of color minimizes any expected whitish overcast that you would usually get from a sunscreen.

Though not entirely devoid of color, I do find that there is a bit of hue that stays over complexion that can be either complimentary or hindering. It has a peach-like quality that is incredibly sheer but after a minute or two, dissolves into skin tones from fair to medium without any residual color aside from muting redness and evening slight discoloration. If applied with hands, be sure to go over ears and top of decollatege' if exposed.

Even if the color isn't quite right, what stands out most is the Photolysomes and Endosomes delivery systems that permeate deep into the skin's surface to undo cellular damage and prevent early cell death caused from UV exposure. Why cover flaws when you can irradicate them entirely?

Neova DNA Damage Control Silc Sheer SPF 45; $39.00

Product Review; "Sensai Bronzing Gel SPF 6"

2011-09-01T06:25:00.000-07:00

Though my Hispanic skin easily takes color, being covered from head-to-toe for the upcoming Winter months will forbid even the most remote opportunity to receive a bit of natural light. And while I’m not inclined to head for the tanning beds to resuscitate that bronze tone, the next best thing would be a bit of a disguise while my pasty flesh acclimates to the now retreating sunny weather.

Bronzing the body (arms, neck and legs) is difficult as this skin doesn’t really respond to makeup too well, but Sensai has formulated a bronzer that wears lightly without transferring to any amount of layers I'll be wearing when the snow starts falling. Sensai Bronzing Gel contains ingredients like 70% Distilled Water and Macademia Nut Oil that permeates the top layers of skin for color that shows like your own complexion, and won’t rub off on clothing.

Take a small dollop of product into the palm of your hand, apply directly to moisturized skin and watch it dissipate away leaving no shine or shimmer behind – just hydrated, warmly tinted flesh ready for exposure. Any residue on palms would be great for patting over cheeks, forehead and neck to create continuous color and uniformity. The tone and texture are also so light they are easily blended into foundation or even tinted moisturizer if you feel like having the slightest bit of color perk.

Even if you’re not going to be stripping down to a tiny bikini come Springtime, you should still treat newly exposed skin to a bit of color. Besides, who wouldn’t prefer a summer-sun-kissed glow to the shock of winter-white?

Sensai Bronzing Gel; $40.00

As Seen on TV; "Bijules for Becks Greenbox Project"

2011-08-26T09:46:00.000-07:00

Jules Kim is the creative mind behind EVERY piece of jewelry you have ever admired in a music video. Adorning the likes of Katy Perry, Kelly Rowland, Beyonce, Nicki Minaj, Chris Brown, Drake, Leona Lewis, Rihanna, etc., etc. ad infinitum...

Recently she contacted me to collaborate on a project for the Beck's Green Box Project; an opportunity for artists to facilitate a public experience of their art through digital media. Located in Hollywood, a specific location will have a mobile app activated to view a video featuring Jules in makeup I designed to coincide with the overall experience. Check out the above interview for an understanding of her views behind beauty and adornment or check out a preview of the project and how it works on your iPhone.

Breaking News; "Sam Fine joins Fashion Fair"

2011-08-24T10:22:00.000-07:00

Celebrity makeup artist Sam Fine is reknowned the world over as the premier makeup artist when it comes to women of color. The Fashion Fair label of products was born of a lack of a shade range that appropriately addressed the needs of women of color. A match made in cosmetics heaven.

At the top of the call list for super models Iman and Tyra Banks to Academy Award nominee Mo'Nique, Sam has lent his talents to every event where women need to look their most fresh and glamourous. In addition to red carpet events, he has also traveled the globe giving instruction on makeup application and doing press events for product and collection launches for the likes of MAC, Kissable Couture, Revlon and Covergirl. Though you can still purchase his how-to videos, most of his time and creative energy will be focused as he takes on the role of Creative Makeup Director for Fashion Fair including consulting on shade formulation and making in-store appearances.

"In his new role as Creative Makeup Director, Fine, a 20 year makeup artist veteran, will apply his accumulated artistic acumen and fuse it with Fashion Fair’s brand DNA, to advise on the creation of new products, enrich its color palette and make in-store appearances. In 2012, Fashion Fair will unveil Sam Fine for Fashion Fair trend collections, starting spring 2012.

“ 'There’s no place I’d rather foster my creative energies,' said Fine. 'Fashion Fair was a barrier-breaking cosmetic line since its inception 38 years ago and remains a leader in prestige cosmetics for women of color.' "

Field Trip; "MAC Greenwich Village part deux: Drag Makeup Workshop"

2011-08-24T08:25:00.000-07:00

When last I was introduced to the "smallest MAC store in the world" my eyes couldn't believe the clever use of negative space and a staff that was prompt to accomodate. Upon my return, I found that even in a lack of square footage, there were no lack of big ideas.

Tim Pearson is part of the MAC management at 353 Bleecker Street but has a history of drag excellence that he's opted to share with his staff. Having conquered the world of competitive drag competitions as his counterpart "Cookie Von Douche'e", Tim drew on multiple inspirations and tricks learned in the field to translate into a basic understanding of drag makeup application... using me as his model.

With a captive audience, he first discussed the evolution of drag providing images of past and present stars of the scene including nightlife staples Hedda Lettuce, Drag Race stars Nina Flowers and Bebe Zahara Benet and, of course, the original MAC girl and drag icon, RuPaul. After pointing out differing interpretations of drag, he shared revelations about repurposing found items to create drag looks and unorthodox inspirations for accessories as well as drag names. Once a course syllabus was distributed, outlining the step-by-step process, each participant watched an example of application then was asked to duplicate on one another.

The first step was covering eyebrows using, of all things, a glue stick, then creating a base all around the face using Studio Sculpt Foundation and color-correcting areas where facial hair would show through with Studio Finish Concealer and setting with Select Sheer Loose Powder.

After creating a clean base, Tim used Full Coverage White Foundation to mimic the kind of highlights that would show under stage lighting to recreate the face in a more feminine shape. After that, multiple tricks with bronzers and eyeshadows to contour cheeks, eyes and chins then the introduction of vivid colors to add warmth and vibrancy. Detailed application advice for each brush stroke was relayed to the artists with occasional check-ins to ensure consistency but always nurturing their own personal spin; where one artist would highlight lids, another would black them out completely.

Fostering an individual perspective, every artist was able to create looks that express their own interpretation within the parameters that were laid out for them. Moving about the small "classroom", he could guide each of them through tricky steps and flicks of the brush while recommending small alterations for more efficient results. After we all had a chance to check out the finished faces, no one could deny that this little shop held some pretty big talent.

Product Review; "Lubriderm Men's 3-in-1 Lotion"

2011-08-17T18:17:00.000-07:00

My father has never been a tremedous proponent of skin care. The concept of facial cleanser, eye cream and moisturizer are foreign and the term "skincare regimen" would be considered a profanity.

Lubriderm has always produced emollient based products that boast curative benefits to all skin but opted to narrow their focus when it comes to men... specifically, men like my dad. Using a formula rich in moisture binding elements, Lubriderm Men's 3-in-1 Lotion is the one step item that could coax even the most stubborn guys into taking care of their skin.

I would characterize it as a "starter product" even though it has dense hydrating properties and soothing elements like Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract that nourish tired dry skin. But it also has some ingredients that wouldn't get past a more savvy skincare afficianado. For one, Mineral Oil is right up at the top of the list which isn't really such a big deal, though it is synthetic, the "slip" value is lessened by the presence of more valuable emollients like Vitamin E and Cetearyl Alchohol; both designed to extract moisture from the air. However, in a more miniscule amount we also find Petrolatum which is another synthetic that can also give a bit of slide, but when combined with essential minerals like Zinc, Copper, Potassium and Magnesium doesn't get greasy.

Because the ingredient list contradicts the feel of the product, you can use it over arms, legs, body and even face to give parched, neglected skin a basic introduction to much needed moisture. As an added bonus, the nourishing quality triples the use as a valuable, irritation free after-shave. But of course, the best part is that it's only 1 step. No need for multiple products that can be intimidating to the novice in your home, and can be used multiple times throughout the day as needed without building up. But I say that as airly as possible, wouldn't want anyone to think this was a "regimen".

Lubriderm Men's 3-in-1 Lotion; $8.49

Product Review; "Guerlain Terracotta 4 Seasons Tailor Made Bronzing Powder"

2011-08-17T17:14:00.000-07:00

Enriched with PURE GOLD this lightly milled bronzer continues the tradition of Guerlain's international acclaim when it comes to the look of sun-kissed skin.

Terracotta 4 Seasons Tailor Made Bronzing Powder is an incredibly light-weight pressed powder with rich floral notes that dissipate almost immediately leaving behind a haze of fragrance. Applied with a natural hair brush, I find that it also leaves behind only the faintest of texture.

Practically melting into skin or over foundation and powder, it is milled to appear on camera as nothing but a perfectly sculpted complexion. And where most bronzers include shimmer, the pure gold process in the formula only hints at reflection and is described by the company as matte though, it never looks or feels "dry". Instead you have 4 seperate shades to blend, layer, mix and match to suit your natural tone for shape and form that can hint at sun-exposure or can boast full-on bronze.

However, both color options, Blondes and Brunettes, are best suited for fair to medium skin tones but the shades available in each compact can be suited for either yellow or pink undertoned skin. If one combo looks a bit too ruddy, each offers a slightly lighter version that can perk up seams and brighten highpoints. A little bit of blending may be necessary, but I like the formula enough to go pretty heavy-handed with it. But it doesn't really matter how much you layer, it will never build in texture, only density of tone. And even that will only look light a deeper kiss of sunlight.

Guerlain Terracotta 4 Seasons Tailor Made Bronzing Powder; $74.00

Product Review; "Nicka K HD Eyeshadow"

2011-08-17T16:07:00.000-07:00

Available at any local beauty supply, including the one on my block, New York based cosmetics firm Nicka K is one of those brands I am accustomed to seeing but rarely think of as a destination. "Why" seems to elude me. Particularly with pricepoints that rarely induce sticker shock.

Nicka K HD Eyeshadow is a very smooth feeling powder product that has a slight, well, not moist feel, but almost creamy texture. It applies easily with a brush of any fiber be it synthetic or natural hair and can also double as a subtle highlighter if used sparingly. Some tones are available in lighter reflective formulas but most are very shimmery with denser flakes than a finer milled department store brand. Though, not such a bad thing, these shadows are perfect for using as a base before you begin creating dimension in the crease or a smokier effect.

The base ingredients are Paraffinum Liquidum which creates that smooth feel and Kaolin that dries out any excess moisture to keep the pigments in place. Added to the mix, of course, are the usual color makers Titanium Dioxide and Iron Oxide.

Unfortunately, there are a few more items in the recipe that aren't so great for staying power but for the most part, I appreciate them for the color options, layering benefits and opportunity for a bit of experimentation. Especially when it comes to price, the investment is surely worth paying attention next time I head to the beauty supply store.

Nicka K HD Eyeshadow; $1.49

Product Review; "Neutrogena Revitalizing Lip Balm"

2011-08-17T14:25:00.000-07:00

Lip balm is lip balm is lip balm... except when it's more than lip balm.

Neutrogena has other moisturizing lip products on the market and has had them for quite some time with success, so what's so different about this formula? The base ingredients are among the usual suspects; Petrolatum (synthetic emollient that locks in moisture), Shea Butter (fatty fruit extract that nourishes skin), Candelilla Wax ( an organic thickening agent for smooth application) and Carnauba Wax ( palm tree extract that makes creams richer).

All fine and good. Still haven't seen anything I haven't seen before... until my eyes spied " ion2complex™ " a mix developed for Neutrogena Revitalizing Lip Balm that "...works in tandem with the product's existing moisturizers to create a positive electric micro-current - instantly giving lips a fuller, more defined look."

In case you missed it; ELECTRIC micro-current. A lip balm that offers your pout shock-treatment. Utilizing base elements Titanim and Copper to chemically interact with eachother creates a sufficient, yet miniscule, electrical reaction that stimulates cellular function and creates swelling that forces circulation. With all that activity, dulled color is transformed and texture is improved.

Available in 6 colors, from pale shimmer to rich sheer burgundy, each will mimic the flush of a healthier smile until lips, over time, become naturally fuller and more radiant. It feels like any other balm, only a bit more creamy and the flavor is quite nice (similar to cherry Jolly Ranchers) and the tube is easy function. If I didn't know my lips were being electrocuted, I'd think it was like any other balm. Personally, I would have thought I'd feel some kind of sensation when I rubbed my lips together like you do with a lip plumper, but, nope, nothing. No tingling, no burning, no irritation at all... kind of shocking, actually.

Neutrogena Revitalizing Lip Balm; $8.99

As Seen on TV; "NARS Larger than Life Longwear Eyeliner"

2011-08-14T15:08:00.000-07:00

NARS Cosmetics celebrates it's launch of Larger Than Life Longwear Eyeliner with a collaborative video created and directed by Fabien Baron. Though not specifically designed to be applied by mechanical surgeons, this;

"...rich, creamy color glides on smoothly with a completely budgeproof finish. Incomparable 12-hour wear with no smearing and no caking."

The product line comes in 9 dense colors for $23.00 each. Robot arms not included.

Product Review; Clean and Clear Advantage Popped Pimple Relief Gel Pen"

2011-08-10T16:08:00.000-07:00

Why would you pop a pimple?

No, seriously, why?

WHY I ASK YOU, WHY?!?!?

Well, even though you know you SHOULDN'T... I guess if the deed is done, you may as well try to lessen the damage. Fortunately it's Clean and Clear to the rescue!

Clean and Clear Advantage Popped Pimple Relief Gel Pen, a gel based fluid with a whopping 2% Salicylic Acid, a potent BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid), delves just deep enough into postules and removes any and all bacteria that causes inflammation, redness and irritation. The result is skin that is relieved, relaxed and more apt to replenish healthier cells for a smoother complexion.

The applicator tip is rubberized in a slant position that cups over marks to deliver just enough product to null inflamed skin and the wind-up wand clicks into position keeping you from over-use. Of course, if you did happen to use too much, the formula won't over-irritate skin since it dissipates rather quickly. I found that it's best after bathing when the surface is most supple and if you tap the affected areas just after moisturizing, you can keep sensitive skin from over-drying.

As an added benefit, the formula also boasts Citric Acid and Portulaca Oleracea Extract, two more effective anti-inflammatories used in the prevention of postules. Which means you can use this product on areas you think you may potentially develop pimples. Then you won't have to pop them... because you know you shouldn't.

Clean and Clear Advantage Popped Pimple Relief Gel Pen; $6.99

Product Review; "Benefit Cosmetics CORALista Blush"

2011-08-10T13:51:00.000-07:00

When I'm considering a blush, I almost always consider the color the way I would consider the color of a concealer. Even though Benefit Cosmetics offers multiple shades of their boxed blushes and bronzers, CORALista Blush has the kind of agreeable finish that masks imperfections and highlights bone structure.

Though "coral" is right in the title, this blush reads as a rosy pink in the box and can seem a bit too bold for novice makeup enthusiasts. Using the accompanying brush, made of natural hair bristles, to "... sweep blush lightly across the apples of your cheeks, starting from your hairline and working in" blurs the vividness of the shade and defines the contours of your cheek. While the remnant of product over the apples will create a flush that romantically frames the face.

I've found that it looks pretty much the same over every skin tone from very-light to medium-dark since it has a large dose of Mica in the formula that creates a glowing sheen that almost fades away imperfections and bouncing light to the highpoints of cheeks.

Used just after powder and before any other blush shade will mask any ruddiness or uneven skin tones and make skin glow in even difficult lighting situations. Almost like a deflector that manipulates angles to mask anything you don't want to be seen. Just like a concealer.

Benefit Cosmetics CORALista Blush; $28.00

Product Review; "Tarte Cosmetics Provocateur Amazonian Clay Shimmering Powder"

2011-08-09T08:27:00.000-07:00

I had this eyeshadow that was the right color for highlighting pretty much all skin tones and thought to myself, "someone should really put this into a larger compact"... provided it was the right texture, tone and finish.

Tarte Cosmetics is one of those brands that offers color cosmetics from the perspective of a health concious consumer who wants beautiful products minus heavy synthetics. The problem with such a search is that most common pigments and ingredients that create coverage are... heavy synthetics. But with the advent of new technologies and widespread awareness of "healthier" formulas, I've been recently introduced to Provocateur Amazonian Clay Shimmering Powder.

Amazonian Clay (othewise known as Kaolin) is being touted as "Nature's Most Perfect Ingredient" for it's incredibly nutrient rich properties and ability to nourish all skin types be they dry, oily or combination. Thrown into the mix are Vitamins A, C and E making this one of the better products for someone looking to maintain sensitive skin's balance.

Fortunately, available in two shades; Champagne and Rose, both options have a very light but recognizably luminescent sheen that reflects just enough surrounding light to give the illusion of higher cheekbones, brighter eyes and full lips. Champagne has a beige-golden tone that replicates warmth and light without any stark or overpowering brightness. It blends almost completely away on top of foundation, powders and eyeshadows to make edges disappear seamlessly. Plus the formula is so light-weight that you can layer and layer and layer for added brilliance without shocking up-close gazes.

Perfect for ALL skin tones, a light dusting will reflect immediately but the deeper the complexion, the lighter of a hand you should use. Fortunately, the texture is so forgiving, the tone is so subtle and the finish so minute it can be manipulated in many ways to suit any skin shade. And I won't have to reach for that eyeshadow again.

Tarte Cosmetics Provocateur Amazonian Clay Shimmering Powder; $30.00

Product Review; "Neutrogena Healthy Skin Custom Glow Bronzer"

2011-08-09T07:15:00.000-07:00

Best known for being "... a worldwide leader in premium, dermatologist-recommended skin, hair and cosmetic products..." Neutrogena creates color cosmetics that coincide with their overall reputation.

Made with a triple antioxidant complex, Healthy Skin Custom Glow Bronzer was designed to maintain skin's natural balance without detrimenting it's condition and appearance during wear and once product is removed. Not only is the formula lightweight in texture, but it has components that boast elements you'd expect to find in skincare. Ingredients like Cornstarch, Soybean Seed extract and Vitamin E create a formula that blends effortlessly and can even contribute to clearing up difficult complexions.

This may seem like a god-send, but let me clarify; it's not that the product will cure acne, per se. It's more the idea that it will do nothing to make your acne worse. This is the kind of property that would be considered "non-comedogenic", though, unlike most products, this one actually seems to do the job.

Though, it's not all rave reviews... unfortunately, I find the color choices to be a bit off if you are particularly pale. Skin tones in the very-fair to fair range with pink undertones may find this product a bit too ruddy on skin. The amount of Mica that creates the anticipated "glow" with bronzers is a gold-tone so it reflects beautifully off of yellow-toned complexions that are more medium to medium-deep in color. Everyone in the darker range will find it a great contour powder and even highlighter when in conjunction with other powder products like foundation.

Of course, you can always use more of a light-hand if you're particularly light-skinned. With the blend of beneficial ingredients, at least you know your skin will look great even after taking your makeup off.

Neutrogena Healthy Skin Custom Glow Bronzer; $12.99

Product Review; "Aveeno Daily Detoxifying Scrub"

2011-08-09T05:23:00.000-07:00

"Scrub" is not a term that I like to use. Unless it's in reference to my kitchen counter-tops. The word conjures up images of aggressive motion intended for immediate results and the delicate nature of skin is not so easy to comply. Though Aveeno opts to use that phrase to market a creamy, slightly hydrating, daily exfoliator, it has to be the only part of the packaging that makes me cringe.

Available in a easy to use squeeze tube, Aveeno Daily Detoxifying Scrub is oil and soap-free and instead uses a combination of Glycerin and Rice Bran Wax to create an emulsion that glides over rough complexions. The tiniest of beads composed mostly of Coconut Fruit and Luffa Extract replace the usual suspects to abrase surface skin cells and lightly buff them away. Being so light in texture and agreeable to skin, you'll find that exfoliating on a daily basis will eventually lead to a milder, softer look that also improves circulation.

On damp skin using a gentle (GENTLE) circular motion, an amount the size of a dime in the palm of your hand is more than enough to address the entire face. The reason I stress the word "gentle" (GENTLE!) is to basically counter the term "scrub". Though it's probably pretty unneccessary since you can't really over-use this product. The emollient factor is pretty dense and the feel is similar to an extra thick lotion that doesn't absorb. After a few moments of use, you might notice tiny flecks that begin to raise off rough spots. Those are excessive dead skin cells being released revealing newer, more hydrated skin underneath.

And you didn't even have to "scrub".

Aveeno Daily Detoxifying Scrub; $6.99

Product Review; "Bumble and Bumble Classic Hairspray"

2011-08-05T09:28:00.000-07:00

The best part of going months without seeing your barber is the bed-head. Sounds like a contradiction, but it isn't always. However keeping tussled hair looking more chic and less messy does take even the most miniscule of effort.

Dusted over the crown and around any style, be it long and kempt or shorty and shaggy, Bumble and Bumble Classic Hairspray has just the right amount of flexible hold to maintain spontaneously mishaped looks in place. Using Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein to create minimal shine, this key ingredient also creates a reparative effect lessening damage as well as adding a moisturizing and conditioning property.

However, "moisturized" doesn't necessarily mean "wet". This light mist, even at full strength, coats strands, short and long, with an airy quality that is dry to the touch even seconds after application. You can even use fingers to scrunch and pull errand pieces into place before the product sets leaving your look well held and perfectly disheveled. Especially for hair is that is just barely long enough to take on accidental styling.

Once a perfectly shaved cut grows out to wild, coarse unmanagable locks that refuse to be tamed, Bumble and Bumble seems to be the only other option for control, besides your pillow of course.

Bumble and Bumble Classic Hairspray; $22.00

Product Review; "KohGenDo Cosmetics Maifanshi Moisture Foundation"

2011-08-03T18:09:00.000-07:00

Supremely weightless and even more invisible, Koh Gen Do's star product Maifanshi Moisture Foundation was created to look like a cream foundation with the texture of a liquid.

Utilizing a ratio of 60% water, 30% highly refined oils and 10% powder, this unique blend of ingredients harmonizes the effects of traditional makeup into a chilled souffle-like texture that dissapears on contact with skin. In it's wake you find a slightly dewy yet satin-like finish that cleverly disguises uneven patches and blurs signs of wrinkles and darkness. All this with little-to-no texture... or less. Much like the feel of a tinted moisturizer, you'd almost suspect there were no product resting on your skin if you applied it all over with wild abandon.

Best used with a foundation brush, apply to half your face and see for yourself the dramatic change in tone, texture and luminosity your skin possesses without even remotely looking like you have anything on at all. The chilled sensation from the water will melt into your skin leaving the emollients Shea Butter, Jojoba Oil and Aloe Leaf Juice to hold together 2 kinds of powder properties that both fill lines and filter light to create smoother-feeling and smoother-looking complexions.

However, coverage is not complete. Though it does create a tremendous improvement in the look of all skin types, be they dry or oily, you will get only medium coverage from this foundation. Which is actually quite enough. Since it weighs so lightly on skin, it's perfect for sweltering Summer heats and will protect skin during frigid Winters without compromising finish or luminosity. But if you still feel as though you need more coverage, you can set it with a foundation powder, mineralized powder or even concealer and foundation without breaking the integrity of the product.

Though I caution you, do this in small steps. Since you get such immediate perfection, adding other products can easily look heavy. Remember, on it's own, you get the coverage of a cream, the texture of a liquid and the tone of effortless perfection.

KohGenDo Cosmetics Maifanshi Moisture Foundation; $49.60

Product Review; "Clean and Clear Finishes Mattifying Moisturizer"

2011-08-03T15:58:00.000-07:00

Ideal for anyone who is concerned with counteracting excessive oily complexions for a truly soft, matte finish, Clean & Clear has developed their Finishes Mattifying line of products that are;

"clinically shown to combat shine...with an exclusive long-lasting mineral+ complex that attracts and captures oil while controlling shine all day..."

True. Actually VERY true. Though somewhat water-y, Clean & Clear Finishes Mattifying Moisturizer sits on skin for seconds before absorbing oil and sinking into pores with little effort and blending. Applied to the t-zone (forehead and bridge of nose) and blended outward before foundation makes the need for shine-controlling powder less necessary. Though I would still recommend setting any cosmetic product with a finishing powder, you'll find that you can use a lighter hand in areas you would usually coat for shine control. Plus, it does have a really light moisturizing property that would be ideal for someone who has excessive oiliness and still needs optimal hydration.

However... (uh-oh)

The mineral complex, while incredibly adapt at holding shine at bay, has a really noticeable whitish cast that is pretty noticeable on deeper toned complexions. Blended with fingers, it seems to dissipate pretty easily, but there's still a small semblance that can't be ignored. Octinoxate and Titanium Dioxide (the main componenets of the mineral complex) have excellent SPF properties that guard against both UVA and UVB rays effectively but are also thickening agents that are responsible for that same whitish hue.

Usually found in ALL cosmetic products from foundation to lipstick, that white property is generally counteracted with pigments and other hues. However, this product has no other pigment so it's a bit more noticeable.

My answer to this problem is simple; blend. It's literally just that simple. The pigments in your powder or foundation will rest on top of the product and create a more even complexion with a subtle brightness about the high points of your face. If you're wearing blush, bronzer or foundation powder, use the same brush and swirl lightly over the deep points of your face to make sure all products are blended properly and graze over the high ones. Not only will skin stay dry throughout the day but highlights will make skin look brighter and glowing... never shiny.

Clean and Clear Finishes Mattifying Moisturizer; $6.99

Tales from the Beard...

2011-08-03T14:34:00.000-07:00

I opted to continuously grow facial hair after my most recent trip to Touch-Ups Barbershop. Though Luis is a masterful artisan when it comes to whipping a straight razor across my scalp, I felt as though it was time to step away from my usual high-and-tight even for just a short amount of time.

At first, the scruff developing around my crown, above my lip and down my jawline had that sexy, 5 o'clock shadow thing that itched a bit but was worth the trouble when it came to slacker-chic. But a few days in I realized maintanence was becoming more necessary. Around the edges of my ears and just around my sideburns were easily scaled back with my CONAIR Men's 2-Blade Trimming System as well as just over the ridges of my top lip. A bit of slight fixers didn't seem to do much to change the shape of my face, but did keep it looking more scruffy than mangy.

At dinners, events and bookings, no one seemed to really take too much notice since it's not uncommon to see a fresh haircut grow out. However, I did keep from too many (what I call) "fashion kisses". You know what I mean;

"Darling, how are you! Muah! Muah!".

Too much face to face contact could result in surface burn; my burgeoning stubble might end up causing rashes. Fortunately, I'm a master at the air-kiss.

But a few weeks in, those same looks eventually evolved into quizzical stares. Though not the hairiest of dudes, my face and head do possess the rapid growth rivaled only by Chia Pets so pretty soon, I was sporting more than just sexy scruff. Usually when I get this far in, I reach for my Wahl Peanut Hair Trimmer to keep lengths more tidy looking, but the notion of a full, dense, manly beard became too consuming and I opted to nix that breadth of upkeep.

Instead, I managed to keep stray or even unruly patches of hair under control by rubbing a bit of Bumble and Bumble Sumo Wax through it and brushing it into place using a plastic hand comb that I could fit into my pocket and (discreetly) whip out anytime I felt I needed some quick clean-up. Or to remove anything that may have strayed into the now consuming beard that has become such a prominent form of my wardrobe.

The only problem I've seen with having a beard is that it really doesn't have much versatility in the "growing" stage. While nothing much can be done to change the shape, scope or degree of growth aside from shaving or trimming, I've grown curious to find out what happens when left to it's own growth cycle. If I go a few more weeks, will it curve? Will it lighten? Will it get long enough to braid?

I guess that short amount of time will have to be extended a bit longer to find out. Sorry Luis.

...to be continued.

Working the Poll; "Does sex sell?"

2011-07-18T15:43:00.000-07:00

I understand slinky gals in lingerie for Victoria's Secret. I understand buff dudes baring next to nothing for 2(x)ist
. I even understand the sex-obsessed Samantha Jones (Kim Cattrall) for I Can't Believe it's Not Butter. But when it comes to cosmetics, why do I need to be titilated?

Though there does seem to be a pretty common thread; products like Axe Body Spray and Tom Ford's premiere men's fragrance feature beautiful women reacting provocatively to their formulas. So it must be for dudes. Always those one-track minded dudes.

Do women have the capacity to react the same way? If Matthew McConaughey had a tube of lipstick hanging out of his zipper, would you want it? Sure, he's the spokesperson for D&G "The One", but that's also marketed for men. A certain kind of man, but men nonetheless. Unless I'm mistaken... are women buying this fragrance?!

poll by twiigs.com

Product Review; "Clinique M Protect SPF 21"

2011-07-18T14:50:00.000-07:00

I tend to recommend a tinted moisturizer when skin tones need to be evened out and could use the benefits of hydration with sun protection. However subtle the coverage, it does seem to help improve the look and feel of skin though Clinique has taken the liberty of making a hydrating and sun protective lotion that improves skin tone, without the aide of coverage.

M Protect has multiple moisturizing properties that easily glide over complexions while the SPF factor protects against harmful UV rays. Even as slight an amount as 21 may seem, a daily SPF is crucial to keep skin from incurring the kind of damage received from everyday sun exposure. Whether it's walking outside to run errands or running in and out of the office, staying guarded is always best.

Fortunately, not only does it protect, but the hydration factor is pretty remarkable when it comes to addressing repair. Using emollients like Sunflower Oil to coat damaged skin, M Protect also has a nice helping of Cucumber Extract, Barley Extract and Algae Extract to soothe irritated skin and provide some antioxidant protection.

The irony of these ingredients is that they aren't intense so they're great at keeping the minerals of an SPF from looking too thick and giving that tell-tale white glow on skin that screams "I have cream on". You get the benefits of hydration and sun protection that will keep skin looking and feeling healthy and, with daily use, will keep it from incurring any further damage. All this, without coverage.

Clinique M Protect SPF 21; $23.00

Product Review; "Jack Black Intense Therapy Lip Balm"

2011-07-18T13:37:00.000-07:00

Made for the man who despises frills, Jack Black was born of cosmetic company veterans looking to build a brand that addressed men's issues and avoided their frustrations.

If there's one thing that has always bugged me about lip balm it's that it constantly has to be reapplied. However thick it may be at first application, doing a few swipes during the day seems innevitable to keep chapping at bay. Though, familiar, frequent reapplication inducing, greasy ingredients like Petrolatum and Beeswax are NOWHERE to be found in Jack Black Intense Therapy Lip Balm.

Instead, we find ample amounts of Shea Butter, Avocado Oil, and Vitamin E to soothe, calm and hydrate lips all day in a concentrated form that is anything but "greasy". This surprisingly rich formula, melts onto lips from even the smallest amount applied then grabs hold as it sinks in to create a protective barrier that is smooth, not sticky.

Each tube is small enough to fit in your pocket, loaded up with broad spectrum SPF 25 and comes in 5 different formulas to address any specific concern. Try Grapefruit and Ginger to refresh windburned lips or Natural Mint and Shea Butter to help freshen breath.

But regardless of the variety you choose, each is so potent in enough moisture to grip even the roughest lips without shining, slipping or wearing down too soon. Especially if you hate reapplying as much as I do.

Jack Black Intense Therapy Lip Balm; $7.50

Product Review; "Anthony Logistics Continuous Moisture Eye Cream"

2011-07-18T12:07:00.000-07:00

Smile lines, otherwise known as "crow's feet", occur around the outer edges of the ocular cavity and can be creditted as the most immediate characteristic of aging. Squinting or smiling repeatedly in front of a mirror will show those lines appear and disappear... or appear and fade softly... or appear and stay visible depending on the moisture level of the skin around eyes.

Anthony Logistics has many products to fight the traces of aging by addressing them with moisture levels to suit skin types, particularly for men, and Continuous Moisture Eye Cream is just as effective when it comes to "crow's feet".

Using tremedously effective emollients Jojoba Oil, Shea Butter and Squalene, this surprisingly serum-like "cream" feels almost like a small bubble of firm water. Applying the size of a small bead to the top of my hand is more than enough for both eyes when transferred with your ring finger. Under the eye and around the outer edge, you'll feel a slight cooling sensation for a moment but almost immediately you may feel that finger start to drag. Don't be alarmed, this only means that all the moisture you need has absorbed into skin leaving behind absolutely no greasy feel.

Once all-in, Vitamins A, C, and E protect skin from further damage while Cucumber extract soothes and repairs any you might have already incurred. Not only will you see "crow's feet" fade over time, darkness will diminish and elasticity will return. Making any and all of those fine lines, and subsequent signs of aging, bounce right back.

Anthony Logistics Continuous Moisture Eye Cream; $32.00

Product Review; "NARS Illuminator"

2011-07-18T10:55:00.000-07:00

Amid the search for Summer favorites, highlighting products seems to be the most longed for to elude a cosmetic collector's grasp.

NARS highlighting powders have always been among some of my personal faves, but in extensive heat, powders can have more density than comfort can tolerate. NARS Illuminator on the other hand is a light-weight blend that includes unique ingredients like Black Currant and Raspberry Seed Oils that absorbs immediately into the skin leaving behind a light layer of micro-particle shimmer that reflects hints of color.

Available in recognizable cult favorite shades like Orgasm and Laguna, the newest release also offers Copacabana (glistening pearl tones with a 3D finish) and Super Orgasm (a heavier flush of the original). All are designed to give skin luminosity but, because of the thin formula, can be paired or mixed in with foundation or tinted moisturizer to create full on glow for months outside sunshine.

The only issue, I seemed to have with the product is the impact it actually has requires very little in application. Packaged in a convenient squeeze tube, just a pinch of the casing releases plenty for one application. Though I may have found that perfect Summer highlighter, every time I reach for it, I have to remind myself to loosen my grip.

NARS Illuminator; $29.00

Breaking News: "MAC-Me-Over Winners"

2011-07-11T16:55:00.000-07:00

The MAC-me-over campaign got it's start last November when thousands submitted their entry videos for a chance to become one of 6 above faces to promote the new MAC Cosmetics Fall 2011 collection set to release August 25th. Open to women and men, consider the above video a "before" shot and stay tuned for the "after"'s.

Working the Poll; "Makeup Movies"

2011-07-10T20:53:00.000-07:00

Many feature films offer the kind of poignant introspection that changes your thought process and forces you to confront your emotional state. Others are only made to be seen.

I remember gazing dumbstruck at Nomi Malone's overdrawn lipliner and breeze-inducing lashes for the 128minutes she mutilated the English language in 1995's "Showgirls". But I also remember being deeply moved when John Cameron Mitchell ripped off his wig and smeared his lipstick in the closing sequence of "Hedwig and the Angry Inch".

Whether the script was tight, the lighting hip or the characters developed, these five featured films would have been nowhere without makeup.

Dreamgirls (2006) chronicled multiple transformations of the trio loosely based on The Supremes from early 60's monotone skin to the glitz and glam that succeeded the summer of love. See the girls change shape in character and form with contour to match.

If Christina Aguilera wanted to go from farm-girl to stage-siren, she had to forgoe her trademark winged liner and red-lip and get back to basics with satin skin and nude gloss before becoming the star of Burlesque (2010) sporting lashes so heavy they gave her instant bedroom eyes.

Even documentaries need a little making-up. Trantasia (2006) chronicled the lives of genetically born men competing for the title of "The World's Most Beautiful Transsexual" in Las Vegas. And whether they were pre or post-op, sometimes "every boy has a dream" that can only be achieved with the right shade of lipstick.

Already painted before she hit the Las Vegas strip, Elizabeth Berkley's portrayal of a girl-on-the-run had to pile on the product before taking off her top next to the likes of Gina Gershon. Reknowned as one of the 25 Movies So Bad They're Unmissable, Showgirls serves no other purpose than a cheap thrill and inspiration for drag queens around the world.

Hitting high notes and living low ones, Hedwig (formerly Hansel) left East Berlin to live a decadent Western life only to learn that all the glitter in the world couldn't hide the darkness of betrayal. Laquered and layered, she worked every trick in the makeup drawer to become a rock n'roll icon with her Angry Inch in tow.

poll by twiigs.com

Field Trip; "NORY Make-Up Studio"

2011-07-01T10:25:00.000-07:00

I had been coaxed into going to Brooklyn to meet with a client and his restauranteur buddy for an evening of private label 10 year old bourbon and all the tapas I could shovel in my mouth. Settled on 3rd avenue in the area known as Bay Ridge, Vela Restaurant would prove to be an excellent diversion and much needed release after having regretably wandered into NORY Make-Up Studio.

Also on 3rd Avenue in Bay Ridge between 93rd and 92nd streets, this small boutique has a full window-front display peering into the location with a view of it's products and what seems to be a designated makeup station. I noticed immediately the cases within showing an array of products and thought I'd take a peek inside. Once I entered, I was greeted with odd stares and an abrupt, "Can I help you?". Though I understand that my tall and (what has been described to me as) masculine facade can seem a bit out of place, I simply responded with, "I've never seen your brand before". Intrigue still fresh, I walked over to a counter of compacts and lipsticks and asked, " are you only available here?".

Mixed responses from the 3 sales people sitting in a cluster engaged in conversation, I only heard one voice loudly exclaim,

"Why? Are you in need of some makeup?! (laughs)".

Stunned at her response, I stood facing her and said, "yes, I'm a makeup artist" to which she replied,

"You don't LOOK like a makeup artist!".

Now fully shocked, I tried to keep my composure and give her the opportunity to regain the conversation, but the snickering behaviour had pretty much ruined any interest I might have had remaining and to be perfectly honest, I had noticed something that made me lose any remnant completely.

The packaging of NORY's products are a whitish silver tin that felt really flimsy. A compact I picked up, I noticed scuffed very easily and looked similar to that of a prototypical branding I had been introduced to years ago called Your Name Cosmetics; a branding production line offered to salons who want to have their own products without formulation.

Basically, it's generic. Sort of like those bags of cereal at the grocery store called Marshmallow Mateys®. Sure, they look like Lucky Charms®... but they ain't.

I'd like to go into detail about ingredient listings and product details, but after being spoken to with such incredible disrespect, I simply turned, said "thank you" and walked right out the door without looking back.

I continued on down 3rd avenue still feeling offended when I was stopped on the street by a colleague sitting outside the Little Cupcake Bakeshop. She offered me a cupcake (delicious, btw) having noticed how upset I was. "What are you doing in Brooklyn?", she asked.

"Certainly not shopping at NORY Makeup Studio", I answered.

NORY Make-Up Studio
9216 3rd Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11209
718.238.1428
www.norysmakeup.com

Product Review; "Alba Botanica Pineapple Enzyme Facial Scrub"

2011-06-29T14:20:00.000-07:00

Alba Botanica should definitely find a new word to describe this brilliant cleanser besides "scrub". The Pineapple Enzyme Facial Scrub has almost no granules that draw comparison to any other exfoliators. And it certainly doesn't feel like "scrubbing".

In general, exfoliating lotions have small beads of silicone, sand, sugar, or other moderate abrazives to remove dead skin cells and reveal clean newly rejuvenated skin. This process also induces circulation but can do more damage than you'd like if frequented too often.

Using mostly certified organic and botanical ingredients like awapuhi, papaya extract and bromelain, this watery lotion uses the inherent enzymes to breaks up the integrity of dead skin cells and, using fingers, softly buffs them away without scraping the underlying healthy layers. Though the ingredients are regarding as mild irritants, use of this product is recommended up to 4 times a week, twice the amount of traditional exfoliants.

Since it also contains aloe vera and jojoba esthers, it's slightly moisturizing and is great for acne prone skin to unclog pores. It's also ideal for gentlemen who shave on a regular basis. By sloughing off dead cells but keeping new ones hydrated, razors will glide over bumps and fewer nics are likely to appear.

Simply use warm water applied to the face, then a small amount of lotion rubbed over cheeks, chin and forehead in a soft circular motion, then rinse. The first time I used it, I didn't realize it had even worked until I saw my complexion when I got out of the shower. Bright and clean skin and, over time, fewer blemishes and certainly no shaving nics. I didn't know you could get that kind of result without scrubbing.

Alba Botanica Pineapple Enzyme Facial Scrub; $12.95

Working the Poll; "Product Loyalty"

2011-06-29T13:26:00.000-07:00

As technologies continue to develop, many skincare, haircare and makeup products will see their lives come to an abrupt end in the years to come. Many consumers will find this irritating, others will ask "why?!" and a small few will throw a fit in the middle of a department store.

Personally, I only like using one (sometimes two) skincare products and get a little perturbed when I forget to have a back-up in my closet... ya know, just in case. Still, I'll try pretty much anything. Since it's my job to try many products, I always look at them as objectively as possible, but can't help but compare them to my favorites.

Even if there seems to be "better" ingredients or more enticing packaging, I'll stray only for the amount of time it takes me to gauge how effective the formula actually is. Often times, I'll find that it is indeed pretty awesome and the bottle is beautiful to behold, but I've already met my skin-mate.

As distracting as that gorgeous casing may be, your formula is no match for my faves. And though I may stray from time to time, I never go too far for too long.

poll by twiigs.com

Breaking News; Formaldehyde getting banned?

2011-06-29T12:34:00.000-07:00

Most nail polishes are now available in what is called a "3-free formula"; a concoction that no longer boasts the chemicals DPT, Toluene and Formaldehyde. These chemicals, though utilized to extend wear, finish and luster, have been linked to numerous irritations including the possible contribution to disease and infirmaty as well as linked to certain forms of cancers... yea. Though it's unlikely that such minimal exposure could create a serious detriment, better to eliminate them altogether and find alternate solutions that are just as effective.

Recently, major contraversy has been surrounding another beauty treament known as the "Brazilian Blowout" that utilizes a smoothing solution guaranteed to close the cuticle of hair follicles and create completely straight strands that resists any and all frizz. Main effective ingredient: Formaldehyde. Wildly popular, some have even taken to ignoring the solutions possible link to aforementioned conditions in favor of silky smooth, straight hair. And while cosmetics company lobbies have been trying to maintain the same "it's so small, it can't hurt" argument, the New York Times reports;

"...salon workers have reported headaches, nosebleeds, burning eyes, vomiting and asthma attacks after using the product and other hair-straighteners."

Even outside of annectodal evidence, 4 years of beauty industry arguments have been busted as government agencies such as the NIH (National Institute of Health) have added Formaldehyde to their list of detrimental carcinogens meaning further investigation and possible banning of the ingredient's use in cosmetics altogether. However, similar lists released by the NIH have included chemicals found in things like second-hand cigarette smoke, mothballs and tanning beds.

More extensive research is still to come but certainly doesn't seem favorable to Brazilian Blowouts which have become staple treatments in salons all around Manhattan and the states in general. Use of the solution, while not yet banned entirely, has prompted salon owners of famed houses like Frederic Fekkai to hault use until they've done their own research and found a safer efficacy.

Maybe it's time to start looking for a replacement?

Product Review; "Guerlain Super Aqua Serum"

2011-06-22T13:17:00.000-07:00

Do me a favor: scroll down to the bottom of this post and just look.

No seriously, I'll wait.

...

Yep! No kidding.

Though the price-points can be somewhat alarming on most Guerlain products, sticker-shock subsides once products are given an opportunity to prove their worth.

Super Aqua Serum is a rich, dense, luxuriously sweet smelling fluid that immediately hydrates parched skin in ONE pump. Packed full of emollients and formulated to feel like silky water, this serum boasts a Desert Rose Flower Complex;

"...originating from a flower which miraculously defies the harsh conditions of it's arid environment, acts as a veritable protective shield. It reinforces the skin's internal barrier, thus increasing it's reserves of moisture and increases cellular resistance to time and external factors."

Most cosmetics that are made very well, need very little in application. As I mentioned earlier, you only need ONE pump of this serum. After removing makeup and cleansing skin, take (again) ONE pump, rub gently between palms and pat over skin including the brow bone and just under the ocular cavity. Though I found my palms a bit silky afterwards, my face felt smooth and hydrated with no residue. I ended up using my, now soft, hands to press into my neck and around my jawline to make use of any excess product.

The bottle is 50mL and since you only need ONE pump per use, you should have it for quite some time (at least 6 to 8 months). So though, intially, the dollar amount is jarring, it seems to be pretty worth it in the long run, however overpriced it may seem at first.

Guerlain Super Aqua Serum; $165

Product Review; "Lancome Hypnose Waterproof Mascara"

2011-06-22T12:30:00.000-07:00

When the sweltering heat hits in a week or so, foundations will become lighter, lipsticks will become balms and all mascara should go waterproof. Though many will resist the traditionally thick formulas, Lancome breaks the mold with it's tremedously light-weight cream that resists clumping with each swipe.

Hynose Waterproof Mascara is the kind of formula that is ideal for a no-makeup makeup look as it applies thinly and then slowly builds until you get the desired length and density. Marketed as a volumizing product, it boasts an exclusive complex called SoftShield™ that keeps a smooth application that will coat every follicle without fail. The patented POWERFULL™ brush seperates each hair from eachother that dries down quickly before the next application to prevent globs from coming together. And should a bead of sweat hit your lashline, it's strong waterproof hold won't budge or smudge even if you're squinting hard in the sun.

Mascara is ideal for perking up eyes but is one of those products that you should switch out pretty often (1 every 3-4 months) as they will begin to dry out or transfer bacteria. And, just like every mascara, the Hypnose line should adhere to the same guidelines. However Hypnose Waterproof seems to dry out just a little bit faster (2-3 months) so I would recommend not "pumping" the wand (it forces air into the tube) and storing it in a cool dry place (no purses).

No need for touch ups, this mascara, available in black and brown, will last up to 16 hours with no flaking, budging or smudging regardless of how many layers you decide to swipe on. Destined to become the star of your cosmetics wardrobe this Summer, you'll get thick, full lashes without feeling weighed down.

Lancome Hypnose Waterproof Mascara; $25.00

Product Review; "Bumble and Bumble Sumo Wax"

2011-06-22T11:31:00.000-07:00

The authority on healthy-looking hair, Bumble and Bumble has designed a dense wax that melts to the touch and coats each follicle with a light yet pliable hold. Boasting a semi-glossy finish, it is applied to barely dampened hair to maintain a sheen to any and all styles while keeping them firmly in place.

Sumo Wax has a really thick, almost candle-wax feel to it right out of the pot, but once a dollop has been rubbed between palms, it melts down to a creamy paste that is slick to the touch and easily smoothed over short styles or stretched over shoulder length hair. If you don't feel like putting in the work, it's recommended that you take a blow-drier and hold it over the top of an open jar to heat up the wax before applying, but either way, the finish is just as alluring.

Ideally, I have found myself using this for short/blunt cuts that are prone to a bit of frizziness. On clean hair, and after coating palms with warm product, I tussle small groupings of strands with my finger tips and work around the crown of the head until it's all pretty much standing on end. Then I rub my palms over the back and sides to distribute any excess. Once every portion of hair is coated, you can style with a brush or smooth out, then shake under a blow-drier to create any shape that will hold fast once it's cooled down. Guys with finer hair will need no further products for a look that will hold all day but I do recommend that guys with thicker locks hit their complete look with some hairspray as an insurance policy.

But Bumble and Bumble does recommend you use the least amount of product possible since it will keep stretching the more you touch it. Too much product (more than a dime-size) will start looking a bit greasy. It'd be wise to listen to the authorities.

Bumble and Bumble Sumo Wax; $25.00

Product Review; "MAC Cremeblend Blush"

2011-06-18T08:40:00.000-07:00

Best known for rich colors, MAC Cosmetics is also notorious for having some dense formulas. Though possibly unwarranted, that reputation can usually be attributed to a poor application method.

I have before opted for formulas that dry down a bit more satin-finish and have little to no texture but have found over time that a "thicker" product wears longer with color that is much more vivid. Fortunately, MAC Cremeblend Blush may feel a bit denser to the touch, but when it hits cheeks, it melts away and blends effortlessly with fingertips or a sponge.

Gently tapped over the apples of cheeks, continue to move the product even after the texture has dissipated to get it to completely become one with skin. Since the base ingredients have a blend of emollients like cocoa butter, avocado oil and mango seed butter, you get pigment and texture that nourishes skin creating beneficial hydration with just a tinge of luminosity.

Ironically this formula, which is ideal in Winter months when chapped cold air can dry skin out, is great in the Summertime when less and less foundation products are used. Just a bit of Cremeblush, though slightly rich, is great for perking up complexions without creating obvious texture. Available in an array of colors from pinches of pink to full on bronze, you can use it to create structure to skin and make cheekbones more prominent. As long as you blend it properly, of course.

MAC Cremeblend Blush; $19.50

Product Review; "CONAIR Men's 2-Blade Trimming System"

2011-06-18T07:53:00.000-07:00

There are very few moments when men actually find it necessary to take care in how they look. Particularly without the right tools and especially when they're not easily portable.

I don't really own many grooming products from CONAIR, though they do seem to make some of the more reliable ones as is evident from my Men's 2-Blade Trimming System. This pocket sized trimmer, only slightly bigger than a permanent marker, has the power to erradicate errant hairs and fuzz around the nape of the neck and hairline without any drag or nics. An easy tool to keep handy in your gym bag or medicine cabinet, it operates on 1 AAA battery and uses minimum power for quick touch-ups.

In the kit, there is also a comb attachment that can be used for cleaning up moustaches, sideburns and even nosehairs. Yea, pretty much any hair that is where it shouldn't be can be literally brushed aside quickly and gently with no need for shaving cream. The buzzing action is so minute, it picks up hair that you don't see and is sensitive enough for earlobes, over cheekbones, and other more... sensitive areas... should you be so inclined. I particularly like to use it around eyebrows to make them look more ruly without having to bust out a razor that can create more aggressive lines.

Multi-purpose on all counts and portable to boot, there's no more reason to go without cleaning up a bit. The right portable tool for men to have for that rare moment when they do take care of how they look.

CONAIR Men's 2-Blade Trimming System; $11.99

Product Review; "NARS Powder Foundation"

2011-06-18T07:10:00.000-07:00

A powder product that feels smooth to the touch, NARS Cosmetics offers up a coverage powder that finishes matte without looking dry.

NARS Powder Foundation is not only light-weight, but using a brush finishes with a vague velvet texture. Not necessarily with a sheen so much as with an almost supple texture. The formula has in it the usual suspects like Titanium Dioxide and Talc, but is milled so thin the ingredients don't have time to congeal and become dense even when introduced to an oily complexion.

Ideal for the Summer months, you can use it in conjunction with a tinted moisturizer, spot concealer or alone for a weightless finish. With the included sponge tapped over T-zone and over cheeks you get more dense coverage that picks up excess moisture and is surprisingly easy to blend provided you don't get too crazy with product.

Touch-ups are easy to address with either a brush or sponge and usually don't require much more application of product. Simply pull any additional moisture up with blotting film and see skin return to it's initially prepped state; a clean, smooth finish that looks like perfect skin, never dry.

NARS Powder Foundation; $45.00

Product Review; "INGLOT Matte Eyeshadows"

2011-06-18T05:31:00.000-07:00

INGLOT Cosmetics offers something called "The Freedom System", an opportunity I discovered at their Chelsea location that affords me the choice of building my own palletes of colors and textures. Recently, among the broad spectrum of bright, richly pigmented shimmer tones, they released a line of matte textures available in a 40 well pallete that impress just as much as their shimmery counterparts.

INGLOT Matte Eyeshadows are exceptionally creamy. I say that knowing the obvious contradiction; a dry texture that feels creamy? Yes, indeed they do.

Ridiculously soft to the touch, each powder shadow releases easily onto brushes with little to no agitation, making it easy to over-swipe product. Once applied to skin, they adhere easily with surprisingly little fallout whether or not you've gotten a bit overzealous. Over eyes, whether skin is prepped or not, you'll find rich flat pigment that blends easily alone or in conjunction with other shadows. If eyes have a hint of a priming base, foundation or even eye cream the colors show even richer even with very little applied.

The tones come in choices of vivid yellows, rich pinks, dense violets or complimentary neutral tones that read almost exactly as they seem in the tin. Available as single packaged tins or in palletes of 2-40, prices will range accordingly. Fortunately, it seems that the more you purchase, the larger the pallete you can get and the lower the price goes. Feel free to load up on mattes or purchase a larger pallete to accomodate your existing shimmer tones.

INGLOT Matte Eyeshadows; $4.50-$12.00

Product Review; "MAC Pro Longwear Concealer"

2011-06-18T04:58:00.000-07:00

I usually like to reach for thinned out coverage products that make skin look more luminescent or mimic how fresher, hydrated, smoother complexions would look. In general, choosing colors to offset the existing tone involves a lot of neutralizing tricks as most full-coverage products (that match skin exactly) can seem a bit too thick or heavy. Often times, truer pigments in MAC foundations do me this service well, but finally, I have a formula that feels weightless without sacrificing coverage.

Pro Longwear Concealer is a light-weight fluid that reads colour-true; on skin, this product looks exactly as it looks in the bottle. When you do a swatch on cheek or chin, you'll find that you get maximum buildable coverage from very little product. Ideal for camoflauging prominent discoloration like undereye areas and acne spots, you can dab this formula with a sponge or brush, and set it with powder or leave it be. The watery consistency holds for only a moment before drying down to a semi-matte finish that will last up to 15 hours. No seriously. Even if you don't set it with powder, you'll get at least 12 hours of wear without budging.

After it's dried down, you can dab a tiny bit more product for additional coverage without building weight. Though the formula may not be right for very dry complexions, by prepping with moisturizer, you'll find that you get a smoother application. Though, if you over-hydrate, it'll sheer out the coverage and wear like a neutralizing product. I won't be going down that road again.

MAC Pro Longwear Concealer; $16.50

Working the Poll; "Public Makeup Artist"

2011-06-14T16:46:00.000-07:00

I take the 1 train everyday into Manhattan to get to clients, gigs, bookings, meetings, pretty much everything. Generally bright and (way too) early.

Often, I get the opportunity to view some interesting morning rituals, none more entertaining than women putting their makeup on. Should I interject? I mean, I won't... ever. But should I?

I've seen foundation mismatches, mascara blobs, blush streaks and the use of FINGERS. I rarely use my bare hands to apply makeup as a prevention against contamination, but I've seen ladies reach for the subway rails and then go right into their concealer. Bleh.

Added to the "ichk"-factor, there's the obvious bump and tumble of the train's movement as well as the opportunity for bumps from fellow passengers that can result in some major corneal damage. Sure it's funny watching someone slip and get lipgloss on their chin, but I'd rather not see anyone gouged by a mascara wand.

poll by twiigs.com

The Essentials; Men's Grooming

2011-06-02T12:50:00.000-07:00

My father used to threaten me that if I didn't clean my room, he'd take away my Nintendo system. I started reading more.

There's a certain stubborness when it comes to guys handling cleanliness. Particularly in regards to their own bodies. Women seem to be more concious of appearing primped, put-together and groomed from head to toe. Though, major fussiness isn't necessarily the appropriate approach, there is something to be learned from the fairer sex.

From handshakes to hugs, a strong, firm grip is the single most important trait a man can have to assert himself and get noticed. But strong shouldn't translate to rough, though manicures can be easily bypassed given you have some of the major players in the process. Sephora's dual nail buffer pushes back cuticles, grinds down jagged edges and buffs out all imperfections creating smoothed fingertips that look strong and welcome to touch ($5.00). Once buffed, Healing Hands Cream from FACE Stockholm coats hands in dense moisture that absorbs into skin making rough patches disappear and that firm embrace all the more inviting ($22.00).

Shaving is one of the first things guys think of when it comes time for looking good. If you prefer a scruffier, yet tidy, facade try the Lithium Ion All-In-One Trimmer from Wahl. It has multiple attachments for trimming, clipping, buzzing nose-hairs and particularly for cleaning up sideburns and fuzzy hairlines on the back of necks. Especially if you can't make it to the barber ($39.95). For a closer, more shorn look a standard razor like Schick Quattro glides over skin when prepped with Xotics Shave Therapy lotion from celebrity groomer Curtis Smith. Used on the likes of P. Diddy, this cream is rich in essential oils that soothes dry skin creating a slick surface that raises hairs for clean cuts and does double duty as a moisturizer. After rinsing just take a small dollop and rub over shaved area to calm any irritation and heal nics with no slick residue ($15.00).

Once clipped and cleaned, a little hair product will do wonders. The waxes in Dirt by JONATHAN Products are strong enough to tame stray hairs and create healthy shine but are low maintenance enough to be handled without a mirror. Taking a full fingertip sized sample and rubbing between palms breaks up the product and turns it into a milky balm that can be tussled into hair, beards and even eyebrows for desired styles that stay manageable through the evening($26.00). For a more permanent look, spritz Aquage Finishing Spray all over in a few quick bursts. The fast drying formula freezes hair into place with no dried out flaky finish and leaves only a bit of shine to mimic strong healthy hair. Plus, it's humidity resistant so there's no chance of major frizz out ($19.00).

Ya know, now that I think about it, my dad tends to be very concious of how he looks. Always has had pretty clean hands, shaves and hairstyles... I wonder what his dad threatened to take away from him.

As Seen On TV; "Dark Girls"

2011-06-02T11:26:00.000-07:00

The contrast of seeing this striking film preview in my facebook feed among promotions for cosmetics that make skin "lighter, brighter, fresher..." was heartbreaking.

Set to release in Fall/Winter of 2011, Dark Girls examines colorism:

"...a state of prejudice, conscious and unconscious, that causes both black people and white people to label as more beautiful or desirable or intelligent individuals with lighter shades of skin, particularly when it comes to black women." - NYTBlog

Among the viewpoints and biases of varied racial communities when it comes to deep complexion, contributions to those biases also come into scrutiny including the "white-washing" of images of black women in mainstream ads and the deep-seated prejudices reinforced from times of slavery.

Though the subject matter may seem very heavy for most makeup enthusiasts, please take the opportunity to examine why we percieve "beauty" the way we do.

Directed by Bill Duke and D. Channsin Berry
Produced by Bill Duke for Duke Media
and D. Channsin Berry for Urban Winter Entertainment
Co-Produced by Bradinn French
Line Produced by Cheryl L. Bedford
Edited by Bradinn French

Please visit and support the Dark Girls page on facebook for updates and breaking news.

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Product Review; "Ready To Wear Lash Extension"

2011-06-01T13:02:00.000-07:00

The last purchase I made from HSN was the amazing Beautifully Baked Collection from cosmetics firm Ready To Wear Beauty. After falling in love with their powder, I have now moved on to swoon over Lash Extension; a cellulose fiber product that is added to mascara for length you have to experience to believe. When I saw it demonstrated on the telecast, I thought I was watching a magic trick and had to rewind the show to watch it again to cement the step-by-step process into my mind

Simply take your regular mascara, any kind at all, and do a simple swipe on your lashes. Then, you take Lash Extension and coat it from the top and underneath and finally, one more coat of mascara to seal it together. The natural cellulose fibers grab onto mascara and stretch out beyond it's scope creating length, length and length. Each swipe of Lash Extension extends your lashes out so you could go crazy and do multiple coats for ridiculous amounts of length and volume for both the upper and lower lash lines.

Of course, if you use a volumizing or thickening mascara, you get even more impact, but I found that reaching for a clear mascara works just as well and gives the illusion of strong, long naked lashes. Using the exact same process, you get a flutter that looks like a gift of genetics that opens up eyes for a no-makeup-makeup-look. Particularly useful for skipping out on false lashes and glue, Lash Extension comes clean away with regular makeup remover and gives actual false lashes a bit of competition.

Though I may keep my box of falsies handy just in case, when someone asks me for fuller, longer lashes, the innovative technology of Lash Extension will always be on my mind.

Ready To Wear Lash Extension; $22.50

Product Review; "L'Oreal Magic Perfecting Base"

2011-06-01T11:16:00.000-07:00

I never touch skin with my bare hands.

I think it's something I picked up from traveling around on the subways and being worried I might unintentionally smear New York City on a clients face along with her foundation. I've found that I don't really need to either, particularly when I have a great supply of brushes to choose from.

L'Oreal offers many things to suit your makeup needs, but brushes aren't one of them and when it came to their Magic Perfecting Base, I think I understand why. This souffle-like texture is creamy and soft to the touch and glides on with fingertips like a second skin. In the jar, the product reminds me of a satin pillow on Valentine's day but once dipped and massaged on face, it goes completely transparent leaving only a perfectly matte finish.

I did actually try to use it with a foundation brush and found that it beaded up and spread fairly uneven especially around the eye area. It wasn't until I took my ring finger and tapped it out that I realized that the formula melted down from the heat and smoothed out without any further effort. When I layered a cream foundation on top of it (with a brush) there was little need for touching up as I didn't need as much product; the base made coverage and blending all the more soft and even. On guys, I even noticed that it kept oil at bay and the subsequent shine under control.

I guess now I rarely touch skin with my hands.

L'Oreal Magic Perfecting Base; $12.99

Product Review; "Alba Botanica Kona Coffee After-Sun Lotion"

2011-06-01T07:06:00.000-07:00

I went for a walk yesterday. Been indoors for the last week trying to nurse a cough that persisted even after sunshine and the accompanying heat had banished the strangest flow of rain this "Summer" has had to offer. I forget sometimes that there's a period of adjustment you need to take into consideration before baring pale Winter flesh to strong Summer heat.

I realized the sun was beating down on my skin, but it wasn't until I went back indoors that I noticed what a lack of proper sunscreen was about to inflict. Fortunately, for the absent-minded sun worshipper, Alba not only makes an excellent lip balm, they also have in their arsenal Kona Coffee After-Sun Lotion; a potent antioxidant formula designed to repair, revitalize and soothe sun-scorched skin.

A blend infused with macademia nut oil, shea butter and kukui oil to drench skin in moisture also bears antioxidants like kona coffee and caffeine to invigorate damaged skin into repair. Applied topically over affected areas, it has a distinct, yet light, aroma that lingers throughout the day remminiscent of creamy coffee without the bitterness. Personally, I'm not into scented lotions, but this one actually has a calming quality to it that makes applying it all the more luxurious. Though full of essential oils and extracted moisturizers, you'll find there is no greasy or sticky feel and it absorbs only after a few moments.

An hour after I applied it to my shoulders, arms, legs and head (just got my hair cut), I found that redness was fading, the heat had died down and there was an obvious suppleness that refused any kind of drying or flaking usually associated with sunburn. A little is great to calm irritation and any kind of "burn" but feel free to slather it everywhere including the face on a daily basis. Applying before sun exposure (and sunscreen) would be ideal for a walk around the neighborhood. You never know when the rain might break up.

Alba Botanica Kona Coffee After-Sun Lotion; $11.95

Product Review; "Guerlain Ombre Eclat Base Paupieres"

2011-05-31T15:57:00.000-07:00

Whenever I see a Guerlain compact, it always strikes me with a sense of awe. In the sense that they are some of the most decadent casings, though not always practical. Usually, I have to remind myself that it's really the formulas within that deserve the critique and not just the pretty box.

Ombre Eclat Base Paupieres is a priming base in one such compact that is designed to be swept over eyes after moisturizer and before eye color to ensure that your look lasts all day and night. Available in only one beige shade, this primer also boasts Vitamin E to revitalize skin. Composed mostly of emollients like Candelila Wax and Carnuaba Wax, it keeps skin soothed and hydrated throughout it's wear to prevent any additional aging or drying of the delicate eye area. Included in the compact is an applicator brush, but I found that it's best applied with fingers to warm up the product so it goes on a bit thinner. Ironically, for a primer, it's a bit thick and bunchy if not properly blended.

With a little prep work, I've found that this product lays on skin pretty well but performs best on eyes that are already fairly smooth and wrinkle-free. In some cases I've skipped the lids and placed it around the under-eye areas before concealer if the skin isn't too bunched or wrinkled either. And though I'm not sure I'll be reaching for it for just about every single one of my clients, the case and formula are still beautiful enough to warrant keeping it in my kit.

Guerlain Ombre Eclat Base Paupieres; $36.00

Product Review; "Jouer Replenish and Protect Hydrating Bronzer SPF 39"

2011-05-31T15:02:00.000-07:00

One of the more uniquely packaged and marketed brands, Jouer Cosmetics has also been one of the more well performing brands in my kit. Products like it's Replenish and Protect Hydrating Bronzer SPF 39 to reach for in, the now, scorching New York heat and humidity, prove more than just innovative packaging.

Made with mineral elements that compose a powerful Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 39, this lightweight powder dusts over cheeks and high points of the face without changing tone or leaving splotchy, orange-like streaks. With a fluffy powder brush you'll find this silky powder leaves skin feeling smooth whether in conjunction with foundations in cream or powder formula, or just bare skin. Not to mention it's milled to super-fine texture that refuses to build up when the next heat-wave strikes.

If there was one thing I had to say that wasn't so complimentary, it would be the lack of choice in colors. As in, there aren't any. Currently only available in one shade "Perfect Tan", this "matte golden honey" tone is incredibly complimentary to skin shades from medium-fair to medium-dark. On darker skin tones, it does look pretty nice as a setting powder or highlighter. Very fair tones will find it a bit too red, but if paired with a translucent powder, you get a nice warm flush.

Though I will continue to carry deeper tones from other companies, I hope Jouer does release more tones soon. I much prefer their packaging.

Jouer Replenish and Protect Hydrating Bronzer SPF 39; $32.00

Breaking News !!; "Beauty Bloggers Obsession"

2011-05-31T10:44:00.000-07:00

MAC Cosmetics recently put together a meeting with 9 of it's most prominent/obsessive beauty bloggers to create a line of products that reflects their innermost desire when it comes to products not already available on the market. They were provided transport to The Esteé Lauder Companies Canadian Innovation Centre in Toronto, Canada to tour and consult with the brands chemistry team in order to create those items to the bloggers specifications... where do I send my submission for next year?!

"No one loves M∙A∙C more than a beauty blogger. To thank them for their passionate devotion & always honest feedback, we invited nine of our favourites to our lab in Toronto to custom-create their own Eye Shadow or Lipglass. Exclusively online, just like the makeup-mad minds that created them."

Eyeshadow ($14.50 U.S. / $17.50 CDN) (Limited Edition)

Hocus Pocus Dark sooty grey with silver pearl (Satin) (The Makeup Girl)
Jealousy Wakes Seething emerald green with teal and gold pearl (Veluxe Pearl) (Temptalia)
Parisian Skies Muted grey-blue (Satin) (Lipstick Powder N Paint)
Sparkle, Neely, Sparkle! Deep rusty brown with champagne-colored sparkle (Velvet) (Beauty Blogging Junkie)

Lipglass ($14.50 U.S. / $17.50 CDN) (Limited Edition)

All of My Purple Life Deep purple/grape with subtle sparkle (Afrobella)
Caqui Persimmon orange (Beauty Maverick)
Evolution Revolution Warm peachy pink with subtle purple, green, blue micro glitter (Makeup and Beauty Blog)
Nitro:licious 2046 Intense shiny red (Nitrolicious)
Sonoran Rain Deep coral-red with gold and silver pearl (The Shades of U)

Beauty Bloggers Obsession
Available Online Only June 21st, 2011
MAC Cosmetics

Product Review; "MAC Haute and Naughty Lash Mascara"

2011-05-30T20:33:00.000-07:00

When MAC first released Haute and Naughty Lash Mascara I was tremedously skeptical that one tube could pull double-duty. Developed to give the consumer the option of either a defined lash or a fuller more decadent lash, this mascara is creamy and dense and coats each hair follicle with precision whether it's piled on or just single swiped.

Twisting the purple base of the wand, when removing from the tube, reveals a thick layer of product to whip the thinnest lashes into full-on flutter. Twisting the pink base of the wand offers up a much softer layering that quickly defines lashes and coats to create drama that is perfect for day or even makeup novices. Applying to the top and bottom lash line has immediate impact regardless of which option you choose and wears all day without fall-out.

The thinner option is great for swiping on and running out the door and has a pretty average drying time. Though, I do find the thicker option a bit too moist. But, provided you give it some additional time to dry, maybe 15 seconds longer than usual, you shouldn't find any transfer. But where most mascaras are in need of multiple coats to get effect, you only need one with this product for either option. Seriously, ONE is enough to make even the smallest lashes stand out. Talk about double-duty

MAC Haute and Naughty Lash Mascara; $18.00

Product Review; "Snog Balm"

2011-05-30T19:55:00.000-07:00

Snog Balm is the kind of thing you see and can't help but think, "how cute!" in the most exclamatory way. Tiny enough to fit comfortably in your pocket, you'd never guess the hydrating power held within.

Loaded up with emollients to keep lips hydrated, this formula doesn't really boast anything different from most balms out there. Ingredients like mineral oil, beeswax and tocopheryl acetate (Vitamin E) are among the usual suspects for lip products, however this product does seem to feel a bit more slick and stretches further with minimal application. Aside from the stretch, you also get the benefits of SPF 15 for sun exposure protection which is something that cannot be said for a good amount of lip products.

Coming in 4 varieties (Naked; unflavored, Cheeky; mint, Virgin Cherry, and Strawberry Tease; coming soon), each balm wears for a few hours before needing the tiniest bit of re-application and are perfectly compatible with lipstick and glosses. A nice product to have handy, this little guys pack more of a punch to puckers than is expected. Plus, they're just really cute.

Snog Balm; $3.50

Working the Poll; Too Much MakeUp

2011-05-27T09:27:00.000-07:00

"Less is more" has always been my mantra when approaching everyday makeup looks. However, conversely, sometimes "more is less" on photoshoots or under certain photographic conditions. The irony is not lost on me.

Being a makeup artist and knowing the difference between creating a look for photo-shoots and one for a client's evening out is an important distinction not only to protect my reputation but that of my client's as well. Many a reporter or blogger will comment on how someone looks when they make a public appearance, but I've always thought about what their date will think.

Growing up around my sisters, cousins, aunts and all their friends shaped my opinion about makeup. Personally, I hated it. But mostly because these were women who were not shy about wearing it. I remember thinking, "why is your face a different color than your neck?", "That black stuff around your eyes is dripping" and "Bleh, don't kiss me please. My cheek will be sticky!".

Men notoriously love when women are dolled up, but rarely understand what goes into that process. Having learned more about the craft and pursued this profession, I totally get it now. Of course, with my previous familial experience, my approach to my job is a bit more cautious. Your date will thank me, I promise.

poll by twiigs.com

Making the cut.

2011-05-19T11:18:00.000-07:00

Finding the right barber is like finding your soulmate; it usually happens when you least expect it. For me, it was a new shop in my neighborhood whose ambiance was a clear sign that attention to detail was a main focus.

First and foremost, cleanliness is a heavy indicator of the work you can expect from the man who'll be handling your head. Not that things should be surgical and pristine, but there should definitely be some effort taken into consideration.

For instance, regularly swept floors insures that no one will be slipping around with a pair of scissors in their hands. Likewise, windows that are cluttered with objects, trinkets or sun-faded posters of hairstyles from yester-year are good to avoid. A shop that doesn't have open windows that peer right in, won't be getting too much daylight coming through either. Tools that are properly maintained might not be as easily detectable, but spotting large glass cylinders of blue liquid called "barbicide" means that there is at least some effort to prevent the spread of bacteria from combs and scissors. When it comes to clippers, they should be layed out on display with cords knot-free and pushed off to the side. Less clutter means fewer chances for accidents.

Once you've given the shop a good glance, the next thing to consider is obviously, "can this guy cut hair?". Well, what does his hair look like? Obviously, not all guys can get the back of their heads as easily as a pro, but does he go to another shop for a line-up or does one if his other barbers hook him up? Merely taking stock of the people who work at a shop will say more than any referral. If the image of the staff isn't of importance, check out whose leaving. Customers walking out the door will be another great indication of handiwork. Especially if you've noticed the same person going in week after week.

But there really is nothing like trying it out for yourself. For those experiencing a bit of hesitation, try a style that isn't as much of a commitment. Personally, I go back and forth between really shaggy and total jarhead, so I don't mind a bit of experimentation. But if you're very accustomed to one particular look, ask for a slightly longer clipper attachment or a scissor cut. This way, you still look cleaned-up, but the style will grow out faster which means less commitment-time. Finding yourself content with the overall look will be a great indication that you should return for a shorter/longer lasting version.

Considering all the factors that make a good barber will lead to one of the best relationships you can hope for and the effort will be totaly worth it in the end. After all, a good barber is hard to find.

Breaking News!!; "Perfume Candy"

2011-05-17T14:13:00.000-07:00

I grew up in Gilroy, California. Most famously known as the "Garlic Capital of the World" and home to the annual Gilroy Garlic Festival. You can imagine the stench.

Though the scent of garlic (now) inspires a twinge of nostalgia, being around (and eating) it everyday did eventually leave a noticeable...fragrance. Mostly due to natural sulfur compounds in garlic known as Allyl Methyl Sulfides. These sulfides do not absorb into the body and instead are deemed as waste and forced through the pores. So the resulting sharp scent is actually a by-product of the digestive process. Fortunately, for everyone's noses, other compounds can also produce this by-product with a more pleasing result.

Geraniol is also secreted by skin but is reminiscent of citrus and rose-like aromas. Most commonly found secreted by bees to signal the entrance to hives or to nectar baring flowers, it's main use in cosmetics is as a constituent in essential oils like ylang-ylang and citronella converted in formulas like traditional perfume. Harnessed by Cosmetics Design Europe it's been introduced it into sugary sweets.

The Japanese have already created chewing gum with a similar property, but CDE opts to develop something that will last for hours on end. The residual effects would even be able to leave a lingering floral-like taste in the mouth, potentially enhancing the flavor of foods you eat later in the day. Maybe they should set up a booth at the Gilroy Garlic Festival.

Product Review; "Ready To Wear Translucent Self Correcting Powder"

2011-05-10T10:55:00.000-07:00

Love.

And not because Philippe Chansel, developer of Ready To Wear Beauty, is one of my dear friends and one of the best artists in the beauty business. What I'm truly infatuated with is the way this product wears so effortlessly on skin.

The Translucent Self Correcting Powder came as part of the Beautifully Baked Collection, along other new favorites, but stands out as being a go-to product when doing any kind of natural and light-weight looking makeup for ANY lighting situation. This product transitions easily from day to evening, runway to sidewalk. Use it alone as a touch up to create glow on cheekbones and reduce shine over t-zone or pair it with foundation of any coverage from sheer to full.

Baked on a terracotta tile and hand polished in Italy, this powder has the smoothest and luxurious application with no flakes or fall-out and leaves absolutely no seams on skin or tell-tale lines.

Coming in one tone to suit most shades of skin, this translucent powder actually does double duty as a sculpting powder for very fair complexions. Anyone in the range of olive complexions will find it a great illuminator and perfect for softening bronzing lines while those who have very light pink-tone complexions have found the perfect soft tinge of color that mimics a healthy flush.

Also great dusted over eyelids, shadows of any color will glide and blend with the greatest of ease. Or use it over lips before lipstick to make pouts look glowier and fuller. Not really much this powder can't do.

Love.

Ready To Wear Baked For Beauty Face Powder; $24.50

Product Review; "MAC Big Bounce Shadows"

2011-05-10T10:09:00.000-07:00

The newest addition to the already impressive arsenal at MAC Cosmetics, this season brings us Big Bounce Shadows; a smooth, mousse-like textured eye color in a variety of shades.

Coming in a small glass pot, this watery-like substance reacts to the touch with a bounce-like effect that holds it's shape even when turned completely upside-down. Applied ideally with the 242 shadow brush and stippled as opposed to swiped over lids, you get a sheer wash of product that builds easily to medium coverage and can be paired with standard powder eyeshadows or set with transluscent powder. Though not entirely necessary, powder does seem to improve longevity of wear and colored powders do dim a bit of the natural shimmery effect.

With a tremedous amount of colors to choose from, feel free to mix and match to create your own shades or layer one over the other for multi-dimensional shine.

MAC Big Bounce Shadows; $16.50

Breaking News!!; "Dungeons and Dragons Fragrance"

2011-05-09T14:18:00.000-07:00

Dungeons and Dragons ("D&D" for you civilians) is a game of strategy mastered by only the top tier of intellectuals who have spent many a Friday night honing their craft in their mom's basement filling out their character cards without leaving Cheetos colored fingerprints. But what better opportunity to showcase that supreme mastery of the game than with a signature fragrance boasting essential oils that clearly define your character.

Be you Half-Elf (white sandalwood, beeswax, white tea leaf, and musk) or Rogue (black leather, hemp, and rosi) or Rogue Half-Elf (combine the two) there are limitless possibilities at The Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab that you can acclimate to suit. Choosing and blending these 5mL bottles ($17.50 each) of extract that follows your Race, Class and Alignment will allow you to specify your distinctive scent with your distinctive character. Best used once you've reached your desired status, feel free to purchase more than one as you advance or shift characters.

Easily distinguishable to the savviest of players, there shouldn't be much keeping you from swiping the keys to dad's Oldsmobile and hitting the bars. Have a hard time telling a potential mate you're a Level 15 Assasin in casual conversation? No need to be nervous, now you smell like one.

Black Phoenix Alchemy Labs
5mL Vials
$17.50 each

Breaking News!!; "Temporary Lip Tattoos"

2011-05-09T13:14:00.000-07:00

When Jeff Haddad saw his daughters put temporary tattoos on their lips for a charity function, it became the basis for his new company Violent Lips. Offering temporary tattoos that can be fitted, molded and customized to your own pout, Violent Lips are temporary tattoos that exceed expectations from traditional lipstick.

Offered in multiple styles from "Pink Snake" to "Red Fishnet" these vitamin enriched applique's have about 4-8 hours wear time depending on skin-type and care and contain no animal by-product. The pigments are full coverage and should be measured and cut to your own natural lip shape to ensure maximum effect. The finishes are something like you would expect from a temporary tattoo but soon the line will be expanding into more festive ones when the "Glitteratti" collection is released.

You get 3 applications with every purchase for around $15.00 but each use is one time only. So technically, a bit more expensive than lipstick, but not nearly as inventive.

Product Review; "Ellis Faas Skin Veil Pen"

2011-05-07T15:23:00.000-07:00

While browsing the cosmetic brands at SpaceNK in Soho, my first impression on the line of Ellis Faas products was that they were lined up like a chambered round of bullets. Then the sales girl mentioned that all the packaging was designed after the shape and structure of bullets... interesting.

The Ellis Faas Skin Veil Pen, though weapon-like in appearance, has all the characteristics you'd expect from similar pen-like units (aside from the hint of danger) but with some useful attributes not so common. For one, you can remove and refill the foundation cartridge once it's been used up making it easy to clean the attached brush without creating unnecessary waste. The cap is more secure than I've been accustomed to as well, so there's no worry about it coming undone in your travel bag.

Designed for all over the face, this medium-full coverage foundation is lightweight but dries down to a powdery finish. I anticipated something a bit silkier but the coverage makes up for what it lacks in texture. Under photographic conditions, it's ideal, makes for an easy product to manipulate and is undetectable but in daylight it seems a bit off. If you don't match up the tone perfectly, it tends to read really fake under conditions around the city like sunlight, overhead lighting and other not too flattering situations.

Best used over moisturizer I slightly prefer it in conjunction with a cream highlighter, blushes or anything else with a bit of a creamy finish so it doesn't lock up. If it's left too dry without the aide of a lubricant, you'll have a hard time getting it to perform well. Ironically, the same can be said of a chamber of bullets.

Ellis Faas Skin Veil Pen; $65.00

As Seen on TV; "Lovers"

2011-05-05T15:30:00.000-07:00

Above is a video by some of the best production people I have ever had the opportunity to work with. Versatile Studios is a full service production house specializing in pre and post production as well as photography, lighting and anything you want to make editorials look amazing. We shot this video to expand on the fashion story for the Seattle based, MF Magazine.

If you'd like to see the full editorial story you can check it out in the makeup section of my facebook page.

Tweet

Sir Mix-A-Lot

2011-05-04T08:52:00.000-07:00

Sometimes, there just aren't enough items in my 60lb makeup kit to suit every issue I come across. Maybe it's just the science geek inside me aching to get some attention, but I tend to create many a concoction when on set to suit the needs that, for one reason or another, the makeup I have just doesn't quite address.

Every now and again, I'll get someone who has a pretty pale, translucent complexion with a slight blue undertone. If you put too much converage onto this kind of face, it can very easily look like a mask. So I'll generally mix 1 part Jouer Luminizing Moisture Tint in "Glow" (an orange-y beige tint) into 2 parts Bobbi Brown Skin Foundation SPF 15 in "Alabaster" (a pale pink beige with medium coverage) to create a luminous sheer glow that undoes darkness and adds just enough coverage that still looks like fresh natural skin. The combination of the glowing particles in the tint and the flat coverage of the foundation create a dulled luminosity that catches light without sparkling and fakes the appearance of imperfections when under photographic conditions.

At times I've found myself wanting a rich deep red lip but find some lipsticks too flat or too dense and many glosses just way too sticky. So once again, I'm reaching into my bag of tricks to come up with something that is rich and creamy enough to hydrate and glide onto lips without being thick and tacky. First I take (the now discontinued) Trucco Pro Lip Pencil in "Blood" and scribble on my hand until it's melted down to the nub. Then I scrape a tiny dollop of Josie Maran Argan Oil Stick and add it to a dollop of L'Oreal Color Riche Lip Gloss in "Rich Nude". Mix all three together with a clean lip brush and soon enough you have a burnt red liquid lipstick with enough hydration to keep lips plump with no sticky texture.

If you've ever had your hair highlighted, you know that no matter how well it was done, those eyebrows are always a dead give-away to the process. Rather than go back for more bleach, I'll usually take any clear brow gel (usually found for $2 at your local beauty supply store) and smush the wand on the inside of my wrist. Then I'll take a tone that suits the highlights of your hair like FACE Stockholm Pearl Eyeshadow in "#17" or "#35" and scrape the tiniest bit into the mascara. To mix the two, I use a spooly wand like the MAC 204 Brush and softly graze against eyebrows for a bit of shimmery tint that coordinates perfectly with your new haircolor.

Many, many times I find the need to play around with what I've already got and come up with things I keep wishing someone had already made. But then I realize the multitude of products that would engross and how heavy carrying around all those items would be. 60lbs is enough, I think. Better to just keep mixing.

Product Review; "MAC Fluidline"

2011-04-27T09:59:00.000-07:00

Smudge-proof, budge-proof, water-proof. Proof that lining eyes can be effortless, MAC Cosmetics released this creamy liner years ago to wild acclaim and it proves to be one of the best in the business.

Though eclipsed by similar gel liners in glass pots, Fluidline proves time and again to be the one to reach for when it comes to pigment, texture and longevity of wear. While other brands may boast a soft formula and colors, there's something to be said for the dense rich tones offered in this particular range.

Pigments like terracottas, stoney browns, vibrant blues and violets and the classic black are easily applied thin or thick with a liner brush for winged cat eyes, an angled brush for lash-line accent or a shader brush for all over color. Sheerly smudged with fingertips over lids, or even layered under eyeshadow as a base will give all day, crease-proof wear.

How much more proof do you need?

MAC Fluidline; $15.00

Product Review; "Duralash Natural Knot-Free Lashes"

2011-04-27T07:39:00.000-07:00

Already an industry staple, makeup artists have relied on Ardell for supplying consistent quality lashes in all forms, but the most popular in their repertoire have remained Duralash Naturals Knot-Free lashes. Perfect for where mascara proves to be too little and strip false lashes can prove to be too much.

Used as an accent on the outer corners or across the lash line, these tiny clusters, available in multiple sizes, are permanently curled, waterproof and practically weightless to create full, fluttery winks that are undetectable to close up gazes. Each individual cluster has a straight edge across the base holding together thin fibers securely without the need for tell-tale knotches.

What are knotches?

Generally, cluster lashes have little "dots" at the ends that gather all the fibers together and, up close, can look like... well, dots. When you run them across or on top of eachother, the result is a dotted line making it very obvious that that flutter is indeed artificial.

Getting rid of knotches completes the illusion of full, natural lashes that flirt with every blink. You can layer them here or there or build them one on top of another to get the biggest, fullest look possible. Without looking like too much, of course.

Duralash Natural Knot-Free Lashes; $3.00

The Essentials; Eyebrows

2011-04-25T07:08:00.000-07:00

If the eyes are the windows to the soul, I guess that makes the eyebrows, what... like, curtain rods? When I was first learning about makeup, I recall Kevyn Aucoin's book Face Forward remarking about how eyebrows "frame the face" and draw attention to the eyes. I suppose they are due the attention any good furnishing should.

Recently, thick bushy brows have come back into mode. And while I'm not a fan of the super-thin-over-tweezed versions, big and bushy isn't quite my cup of tea either. But, even if bigger is better, a little maintanence is still in order. Located in Manhattan, Lilibeth offers two salons that specialize in brows and skilled sales people wield their Brow Shaping Tool to wack away any unwanted fuzzy strays to keep even the bushiest brows in line. This slightly serrated swing blade is light to the touch and resembles a mini straight razor. But fear not, the blade is dulled just enough to graze skin without nics or cuts and only catches unwanted hairs keeping big brows looking beautifully groomed. $6.00

For those with big brow envy, filling in sparse spots can mimic density without looking drawn in. FACE Stockholm pencils are made for every part of the face but the stone-toned eye pencil " Molly " is perfect for filling in or shaping up brows that could use a bit more girth. Simply lightly drag it in the desired shape and you'll see the color instantly change according to the shade of your skin. Pale complected blondes will see light traces of yellowish-brown, olive tones will see a subdued deep brown, and darker complections get a hint of stoney brown. Light in formula, you get a trace of color to look shapely without being drawn on. $17.00

If you prefer more density, MAC Cosmetics eyeshadows are packed full of pigment. Coquette is another stoney looking color that changes tone once it hits the skin. Though much denser, it's best to use a lighter hand and an angled shadow brush to beef up brows. Since it's a powder, you can stipple it on or use tiny stroke-like-dashes to resemble hair follicles. For just a hint of color or to add some bulge, use this shadow to induce a little brow envy yourself. $14.00

Fuller thicker brows or pencil thin natural looking ones will indeed "frame the face" or finish off any look from day to night or from soft to sexy. Best to have the right tools before baring your soul.

Product Review; "FACE Stockholm Magic Wand Concealer"

2011-04-21T12:03:00.000-07:00

In the tradition of "pen-like" concealers for under-eyes, FACE Stockholm offers a familiar product in it's Magic Wand Concealer but with a finished result that stands out from it's predecessors.

Using bonding agents like lecithin to create a soft, pliable and hydrating formula to soften lines and nourish skin, this concealer offers medium coverage in 4 tones to mask darkness and brighten complections overall. Apply with the included brush to banish dark circles, over the bridge of the nose and over cheekbones to highlight or around the lipline to create a sharp pout. You can even tap it over blemishes and let it set before blending to soften discoloration.

Even though it's made with purified water, I find the formula a bit drier than usual. Not "dry" so much as "drier". Though you still get a moist feel, it doesn't stay moist on skin, causing shifting or crinkling into fine lines. Perfect for quick touch ups that can be done in haste.

Unlike the more traditionally moist formulas out there, you'll find much more significant staying power. I'd stay that's enough to stand out from the rest.

FACE Stockholm Magic Wand Concealer; $32.00

Product Review; "MAC Magically Cool Liquid Powder"

2011-04-14T11:09:00.000-07:00

Summer is coming, I swear.

In anticipation of the sweltering heat, MAC has made preparations by giving skin a bit of relief and comfort with the RE-release of one of it's most intriguing products; Magically Cooling Liquid Powder. You may remember this product when it was first introduced into the MAC arsenal as part of the Venomous Villains Collection last Fall.

Though the packaging is no longer emblazoned with the image of Dr. Facilier, the product remains the same silky texture and refreshingly moist-like feel. Layered on top of foundation or bare skin will give preternatural highlights and a dewy fresh glow to complexions with little to no weight. No longer limited edition, this product will join the permanent range starting May 5, 2011 in 3 colors;

"Truth and Light - Sheer shimmer that reflects silver and pink

Cajun - Sheer bronze shimmer that reflects gold"

...and the newest to join the range;

"Honey Rose - Sheer rosy beige with multi-dimensional shimmer"

I'm generally not a fan of loose powders because they don't travel well. And even though these powders are only available in loose form, you'll find that one application is enough to last all day, so there's no need for touch-ups. But that refreshing cooling sensation can be pretty tempting and I wouldn't be surprised if you get the urge to dust again once the heat strikes.

Remember, Summer IS coming.

MAC Magically Cooling Liquid Powder; $29.00

Field Trip; "INGLOT Cosmetics Chelsea Market"

2011-04-11T15:46:00.000-07:00

The Chelsea Market Concourse, located at 15th street and 9th avenue in New York City, is home to a wide variety of businesses from culinary fares and hard-to-find toiletry items to Food Network Studios and MLB Baseball Corporate offices. The ground floor is expansive, stretching across an entire city block, and houses many a gelato stand, specialty grocery, clothing boutique and bakeries. But if you inquire at the entrance near the elevators, you'll find access to an equally impressive space on the 5th floor selling a wide range of color cosmetics from Polish makeup firm, INGLOT Cosmetics.

Also located within the crowded masses of Times Square, INGLOT's newest location not only increases it's presence in the city, but also offers a wider range of services like event hosting, a photo studio and even a "mixing station" where you can create your own specially designed foundations, eye shadows, lipsticks and eyeliners. Though not visible from street level, the services offered make this location a destination for the more savvy consumer who wants to spend time with a salesperson in a no pressure enviornment.

Developed in Poland by chemist Wojtek Inglot, the brand boasts a huge array of colorful products available in what they've coined "the freedom system"; an opportunity to pick, place and match eyeshadows, lipsticks, concealers and other products into your own customizable palette. Free of excessive packaging, the products can be collected on magnetic boards at each station as a template for your final palette that fits anywhere from 5 to 40 items. With price points as low as $5 for lip, skin and eye products, you're likely to fill more than one board.

And just like any professional counter, sales people are available to assist in matching, coordinating and recommending tones to suit your look or even sit you down at one of the many makeup stations to try an entirely new one. Though unlike other counters, you'll find the time to experiment, ask questions or just wander about without having to deal with pushy street-level crowds. No wonder they hid this shop on the 5th floor.

INGLOT Cosmetics
Chelsea Market Concourse
5th floor

Breaking News!!; "Bacon Cologne"

2011-04-09T15:11:00.000-07:00

So this is a real thing. No, really.

Apparently the concept was put into fruition in the 1920's so it can't really even be considered "breaking news" as the popularity of John Fargginay's signature blend of essential oils with bacon fat (yes, bacon fat) were wildly popular until the formula was lost in a fire in 1924. But lucky (yes, lucky (?) ) for us, the once lost recipe has been rescued from the hickory smoked rubble and brought back to life and implemented into two (yes, two) signature fragrances now gaining wild popularity.

The original or "Bacon Classic" is

"... a sophisticated spicy maple fragrance with just a hint of bacon ... crafted with the pure essential oil blend of bergamot, orange, lime, grapefruit, black pepper, cedar wood, vetiver, guaiacwood and two pinches of Bacon salty goodness. "

while "Bacon Gold" has a

"...sizzling citrus aroma with an ever so slight hint of bacon...lovingly crafted with a pure essential oil blend of mandarin, bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, nutmeg, pimento berry, black pepper & a touch of sweet, a smidgen of savory, and one pinch of Bacon salty goodness..."

Both retail for $36.00 for 30mL and are available for purchase on the company website.

As Seen on TV: "Love Lust & Makeup"

2011-04-09T11:31:00.000-07:00

"When I put on red lipstick my husband instantly thinks of blow jobs. Men correlate red lipstick with their penis" -DebiMazar

"Love Lust" is a series on the Sundance Channel whose one-hour episodes;

...will unravel the origin and evolution of various fashion items that we LOVE/LUST. Blending snappy, evocative visual elements with the perspectives of professional commentators and public personalities, LOVE/LUST delivers an entertaining and definitive account of how life’s cultural innovations progressed from novelty to ubiquity.

One particular segment entitled "Love, Lust and Makeup" explores the ins and outs of cosmetics and the influence it has had on the modern world. Offering annecdotes from fashionistas and trend forecasters, the episode follows the recent timeline of innnovations in cosmetics including new technologies and the proliferation of the color red to trends embraced by the people as a result of the economic climate they lived in.

Highlights also include the stages in cosmetic evolution of items like lipstick; from chemist Max Factor who created the first tube to Hazel Bishop who made it smear proof and Charles Revson's Fire and Ice ads that cemented it as a must have beauty item for any woman who wanted to invoke prestige and sex appeal. On the flip side of the spectrum we also get a glance at pioneers in the industry like Bobbi Brown who established the "no makeup look" and made matching the right products to the right skin tone ideal for a woman who matches beauty with strength and confidence. With plenty of visuals citing styles of eras long gone, the viewer can take a journey to see first hand the winged liners of the 50's, 70's andro-punk glamour and even the most recent decades celebrity trends from the likes of Halle Berry and Lady Gaga.

The series also examines the personal relationship women develop with their makeup (sometimes valuing it above health essentials like toothpaste), it's survival in periods of economic disparity (often considered "recession-proof") and even, as Debi Mazar made bluntly apparent, the visceral response it can invoke in men.

To experience the chronicles of the last 100 years of cosmetics, catch "Love, Lust and Makeup" on The Sundance Channel or click here for a viewing schedule.

Product Review; "NYX Cosmetics Mega Shine Lip Gloss"

2011-04-07T01:57:00.000-07:00

Loading up at the beauty supply on my block didn't quite end with lipstick and blush. While increasing my stock on a few shades from NYX Cosmetics, I found the selection of their other products just as enticing and opted to give their Mega Shine Lip Gloss a try as well.

Available in alluring shades like deep plums, pale champagnes and vibrant pinks, they are offered in a sheer formula with high sheen and comfortable wear. Regardless of the tone, all colors are sheer-medium to medium coverage and can be layered over lipstick or pencil without gaining much girth or feeling heavy. Thanks to a heaping dose of shea butter in the formula this gloss has a creamy feel that helps moisturize as well as provide brilliant shine. Add grape seed oil to the mix for a nourishing element that holds at bay any further drying of lips and refuses to allow for any sticky residue once removed.

Adding to the benefits of the formula, high shine property and agreeable choice in colors, I've found that for only $5.50, I've got another reason to visit my local beauty supply besides blush.

NYX Cosmetics Mega Shine Lip Gloss; $5.50

Product Review; "Josie Maran Argan Oil Moisturizing Stick"

2011-04-07T00:57:00.000-07:00

Argan Oil is one of the better emollients suitable for just about any skin type and has experienced a tremendous amount of popularity in the last few years. But with good reason.

So much so that Josie Maran Cosmetics has built it's brand on the ingredient for it's healing, soothing and regenerative properties as well as it's ability to be so effective and remain on the "organic" spectrum of makeup. Originally, Josie Maran offered it in it's natural liquid form but with the demand in market, they've released Argan Oil Moisturizing Stick. Still just as effective as the serum, this stick seems to serve more as a convenience. Easily rolled up you can use it on lips, dry patches on hands, around sensitive areas of the body or all over face and under eyes. Though it is a bit dense, used sparingly and massaged into skin, you'll find that a little goes a long way and will last you quite a long time.

Ideally, I've kept it in my kit for touch ups in winter months around noses and flaky areas. Once blended in with a brush, foundation can go on top of it to maintain a dewy glow that will soak up and hold all day without getting slick. With Summer quickly approaching, I'm getting accustomed to it for it's ability to soothe burns from sun exposure and the natural antioxidant properties are great for reducing inflammation and UV damage.

Add me to the reason for it's popularity.

Josie Maran Argan Oil Moisturizing Stick; $22.00

Product Review; "Giorgio Armani Smooth Silk Eye Pencil"

2011-04-04T16:45:00.000-07:00

Rich eye pencils that are too firm can cause more damage than you think. Available in 6 basic shades, Giorgio Armani Beauty offers up a pencil that feels like a cream but wears like a powder eyeshadow. Gliding onto lashlines effortlessly makes Smooth Silk Eye Pencil ideal for creating precise or diffused lines without tugging the delicate skin. No more tears, ladies.

Though the formula is very creamy, there's a sheerness in texture that can be multi-purposed as all over color or as a base if used over lids and buffed before applying powder eyeshadow. The colors offered are all sophisticated and have a warmth that gives color reminiscent of crushed velvet. Absolutely no loud tones and all paired with a smudger brush on the end for blending or quick fixes. The wood encapsulating the product is soft as well which means sharpening comes with great ease.

No detail left un-examined, this versatile pencil pairs with just about any look from everyday to dramatic. Use it in conjunction with basic eyeshadows or vibrant hues to get eyes looking their very best without the fret of irritation. Though you may still feel eyes getting a little misty, this time, they're tears of joy.

Giorgio Armani Smooth Silk Eyepencil; $27.00

The Essentials; Eyeshadow

2011-04-04T14:39:00.000-07:00

It's been said that "the eyes are the window to the soul". That kind of honour deserves some appropriate drapings.

Personally, I prefer the bright, wide-open, well-rested eye look to something overly dramatic and attention grabbing. But regardless of which look I'm going for, I almost always start by loading a large fluffy shadow brush with NARS Albatross Highlighter. This very refined, shimmery powder looks white in the compact but reads as a sheer wash of dimensional gold. Starting at the brow bone, stamp the product and use a back and forth motion to distribute it under eyebrows and graze the residual in the eye-crease to ensure proper blending. Take another dip and dab right on the inner corner of the eye for an instant brightener. After moments of application, you'll have the look of hours rested. $26.00

To create a little bit of dimension and frame to the lid, use the same brush and dip into #35 Pearl Eyeshadow from FACE Stockholm and buff from the lashline to the crease. The neutral beige tone will offset redness, create shape and add further illumination to tired eyes. Though not particularly shimmery, this tone will catch light and mimic the appearance of fresh, almost dewy skin for very light to medium skin tones. For medium dark to dark complexions, try #17 Pearl Eyeshadow. The golden bronze will deplete darkness and raise your focus; call it an affordable eyelift. $19.00

Stop here and run out the door with a bit of mascara unless you need a little more "umph". MAC Cosmetics offers eyeshadows in rich pigments perfect for lining and giving eyes a dash of drama. Take a short, soft, firm shadow brush and smudge the top and bottom lash lines with Coquette, a muted stoney/taupe color. Deeper skin tones should try Charcoal Brown, a dense but warm earth tone with a sharpness that blends away easily. Get a subtle "smokey" effect by adding layers of the same color and buffing halfway up the lid. $14.50

From this point, feel free to continue to layer and add other colors or even eyeliners of all shapes and styles. Though there are more intricate eye looks to create, starting with these few basics will give eyes a basic, dignified and refined appearance. Your soul certainly deserves no less.

Working the Poll; "Need a facial?"

2011-03-31T10:56:00.000-07:00

Skin needs to be clean. Sort of.

Ironically, the more aggressively you clean your skin, the more likely it is to develop issues like acne, scarring, redness, irritation, dry patches, etc, because you're actually stripping away layers of skin and the necessary oils they produce to guard against the elements. In essence, you're getting rid of the good stuff. Not to say that you should necessarily go without. For instance, getting your face licked by a grown man is probably good grounds for a nice scrubbing, but there's no need to book an appointment anywhere.

Facials are pretty aggressive with steamings, peelings and extractions designed to remove minute layers and expose new, fresh ones that are far more sensitive and prone to damage. Done repeatedly, texture and tone will start to denegrate making you think you need, guess what, another facial. I'd say once to maybe twice a year is enough. Any more than that and skin will start to thin out, becoming more delicate and prone to infection than when you started.

If you take the time to remove makeup properly, exfoliate lightly and keep strange tongues at bay, you should be able to go without facials.

poll by twiigs.com

Working the Poll; "Not giving face"

2011-03-29T08:39:00.000-07:00

I remember rolling out of bed in the morning, throwing on clothes to get ready for school and then waiting in my dad's truck to leave. Waiting for my sister, to be exact.

Though she was only 3 years older than me, the social structure of her new Jr. High School apparently demanded she look primped and dolled every day. This, of course, meant the application of makeup and me tripping over hairspray bottles left in our communal bathroom... when I actually had the opportunity to enter. The endless amount of time I spent waiting... and waiting... and waiting did prompt me to begin walking to school rather than be late again, but I started to notice for the years to follow, this wasn't specific to 7th grade.

Future events like weddings, anniversaries and trips to the grocery store(?) induced preparation on a scale that sometimes warranted my confusion and annoyance prompting me to wonder "when don't you put your face on?". Especially when a close friend of hers accompanied us on a camping trip. Neither of them traversed the mountain ranges without an appropriate shade of lipgloss.

Being a makeup artist, I work with people for special events like film premieres and press junkets seen in magazines and television, so makeup is definitely an important preparation in this case. But, I haven't been hired for trips to the post office... yet.

poll by twiigs.com

Product Review; "Davines #13 Mat Forming Ground"

2011-03-25T14:25:00.000-07:00

"Organic" means whatever you want it to mean when it comes to cosmetics. Unfortunately, there isn't any specific definition of the term under FDA regulation. However, there are some products out there that stand out from the rest when it comes to offering formulas that perform just as well as their synthetic counterparts.

I was introduced to Davines last Fashion Week at the presentation of Rochambeau's latest collection. As one of the star products for achieving the look, #13 Mat Forming Ground is a new addition to the professional hair care line utilizing botanical ingredients including essential oils and resins.

Ideal for short (unmanageable) hair, this dense paste molds hair together with a dry finish. It gives the look of smooth, pliable texture with no shine whatsoever. At first it felt a bit dry, but as you begin to play with it, it turns into a slightly creamy form until rubbed over your head. The more you rub it between your palms, the softer it becomes and the easier it is to run through strands. But you should begin styling immediately to ensure that it sets in the style you want.

You can run around with it all day and even graze fingers through without doing too much damage, but for stronger hold, finish it off with a bit of hairspray. Bypassing synthetic polymers to give it hold, you'll be surprised at how strong "organic" can be.

Davines Mat Forming Ground; $29.00